Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within

Celia Martin
Director Regulatory Affairs & Health Ingredients Innovation Manager,
Lallemand Bio-Ingredients

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Beauty from Within: The Shift Toward Systemic and Holistic Innovation

The concept of beauty from within has evolved from a niche marketing into a commercially significant category. According to Euromonitor, around 20% of dietary supplements launched globally since mid- 2024 incorporate beauty claims (1). The dynamism observed at Vitafoods Europe 2026 confirms that the nutricosmetics market is not only growing in volume but is also undergoing a deeper qualitative transformation. Beauty is being redefined, no longer as an external attribute, but as the visible manifestation of complex, interconnected biological processes. This shift in how beauty is understood reflects a move toward a more holistic approach, where appearance mirrors overall health and links skin condition to factors such as gut microbiome balance, metabolic health, and low-grade inflammation. This mindset is set to define the next generation of nutricosmetics.


1) The next cycle of innovation will render obsolete traditional beauty claims that promise isolated cosmetic results, such as hydration or reduction of wrinkles. Market and scientific research point towards clinically proven, multi-benefit, and personalized beauty claims. Physical appearance is positioned as the visible biomarker of overall health and biological wellbeing. Looking ahead, the following macro trends and product categories are expected to define the landscape in the coming years:


Science-based/clinically proven claims

As consumers increasingly demand scientific validation (2), claims are shifting toward quantified, substantiated benefits. One way to support this is through pharmacokinetic/ADME studies that demonstrate how the body absorbs and uses the ingredient once it is consumed as well as through double-blind, placebo-controlled trials. This applies not only to the supplement industry overall but also to the beauty-related claims. The beauty market is undergoing a ‘clinical shift’, and clinical evidence and transparency are key factors in product selection and trust.


Microbiome and gut-skin axis

The gut–skin axis is one of the most important scientific narratives in beauty supplements. Research supports the strong association between gut dysbiosis and various skin conditions – acne, atopic dermatitis,psoriasis. Microbiota imbalance, gut barrier dysfunction, and immune dysregulation all contribute to skin health outcomes. When the gut barrier is damaged, toxins and food contaminants enter the bloodstream, leading to elevated inflammation. There is a strong rise in probiotic / prebiotic / postbiotic-based products reflecting the increased consumer awareness of the gut–skin–immune connection.


Healthy Aging: From Lifespan to Healthspan

The 12 hallmarks of ageing are the key biological processes driving ageing (3). This framework provides a comprehensive understanding of ageing as the result of multiple interconnected processes and serves as a roadmap to guide interventions, enabling innovative solutions that will support healthy ageing by preserving essential biological functions over time. Oxidative stress regulation, mitochondrial efficiency, cellular senescence regulation, microbiota balance, or inflammatorypathways modulation, they all play a role in both systemic health and physical appearance.


Clean label and transparency

Natural, plant-based, and “free-from” trends remain relevant, but the market is maturing, with increasing demand for ethically sourced ingredients that avoid overexploited marine, plant, or livestock resources. Fermentation-driven solutions offer scalable, and consistent production of bioactive molecules, with lover environmental footprint compared to botanical extracts. Bioengineered microorganisms producing allergen-free and nature-identical ingredients are among the key solutions to address this demand.


Personalization and data-driven solutions

Personalized nutrition is rapidly expanding, driven by advances in AI, digital health, and wearable devices enabling tailored recommendations. Personalized nutricosmetics translates as the integration of supplements with AI-based skin analysis or wearables, allowing consumers to tailor their dosage based on measurable needs.


New delivery forms

Formats are now part of the consumer experience, not just delivery. Nutricosmetics is also shifting from traditional capsules and tablets to more lifestyle friendly formats. Gummies, one of the fastest-growing formats in recent years continue to dominate, while making room for a wider range of delivery forms such as powders, liquids shoots, drinkable solutions, and food-like formats, alongside more innovative options like effervescent, sublingual drops, gels and functional jellies.


3) Beauty is embedded within a broader well-being framework, with the idea that skin health reflects internal physiological balance being supported by a growing body of evidence. This drives innovation from general health categories shifting into the nutricosmetic space. In terms of ingredients, collagen remains the leading category, but the landscape broadens to combinations with collagen with peptides, probiotics, omega 3, vitamins, minerals and metabolites obtained through precision fermentation.


The rise of microbiome-based beauty

Consumers increasingly link microbiota imbalance to skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, sensitivity, and aging. Research on the gut–skin axis highlights key mechanisms—including cytokine-mediated immune modulation, systemic low-grade inflammation (“inflammaging”), and impaired gut barrier integrity—all of which can affect skin resilience, inflammation, and collagen integrity. These insights are driving the microbiome beauty trend, with growing interest in probiotics, postbiotics, and symbiotic to support skin health through gut modulation.


Stress, hormones, metabolic health and beauty-

Elevated cortisol from chronic stress and physiological hormonal fluctuations – in menopause or menstrual cycles- have an impact on skin conditions. High insulin levels increase the risk of developing psoriasis (4). Chronic stress is a recognized trigger or exacerbating factor for acne, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis. Psychological stress increases cortisol and inflammatory mediators, which affects skin barrier function by increasing collagen degradation, reducing antioxidant capacity and accelerating skin ageing (5, 6). Addressing skin health now requires a holistic approach, with products increasingly targeting underlying drivers such as stress, inflammation, metabolic health, hormonal balance and sleep.


9) The convergence of biotechnology and beauty is reshaping how nutricosmetic ingredients are developed, formulated, and perceived. Sustainability must be at the core of innovation and fermentation appears as a key to enabling technology driving this transition. Microorganisms, such as yeast and bacteria, can be used to convert various substrates to natural molecules and metabolites in a way that advantages the conventional chemical production and resource-intensive extraction methods. Fermentation is increasingly recognized as a cornerstone of green innovation in nutricosmetics as it contributes to a circular and bio-based economy by reducing waste, saving water and land use, deforestation, and more (7). The industry is unlocking a new generation of ingredients that combine efficacy, environmental responsibility and sustainability goals.


Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

James Kyffin

ADM

Colton Clason

ADM

Lindsay Sumners

ADM

Sathya Sooryan

Arjuna Natural Animal Nutrition

Dom Orlandi

Aroma New Zealand

Alexandra Wesker

Aseno

Vincent Wood

AstaReal

Behnaz Shakersain

AstaReal

Karen Hecht

AstaReal

Claudio Isenburg

Cerbios-Pharma SA

Leah Bessa

De Novo Foodlabs

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Veronique Brun

Biotexia (formerly known as Fytexia)

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Armando Antonelli

Hylobates Consulting

Isabella Corsato Alvarenga

IFF Pet

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Renee Machen

IFF Pet

Antonella Riva

Indena

Dayna Lozon

Intertek Assuris

Brandon Walters

Intertek Assuris

Ray A. Matulka

Intertek Assuris

J.F. (Jake) Burlet

CanBiocin Inc.

Ronaldo Avella Lavado

Pda (Paul Dick Associates)

On behalf of International Probiotics Association (IPA)

Aida Gadzhieva

IQVIA

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko USA

Francesca Susca

Lallemand Animal Nutrition

Cassandre Dujardin

Lallemand Health Solutions

Mary Joe Fernandez

Layn Natural Ingredients

Jessica Simonis

Clinical Nutritionist

Rajiv Khatau

Lodaat Pharma

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Guus Kortman

NIZO Food Research

Thaila Cristina Putarov

Phileo by Lesaffre

Russ Kelley

Phileo by Lesaffre

Bernadette Beadle

Phileo by Lesaffre

Alicia Kasch

RIBUS

Steve Peirce

RIBUS

Maggie McNamara

Saanroo

Shaheen Majeed

Sami-Sabinsa Group

Linda Carola Baggi

Sacco Srl

Salma Zahidi

Seppic

Cem Dik

Syensqo

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Noah Craft

People Science

Lindsey Wendt

Crystal Lotus Veterinary Care