Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within and holistic trends

Celia Martin
Director Regulatory Affairs & Health Ingredients Innovation Manager,
Lallemand Bio-Ingredients

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Beauty from Within: The Shift Toward Systemic and Holistic Innovation

The concept of beauty from within has evolved from a niche marketing into a commercially significant category. According to Euromonitor, around 20% of dietary supplements launched globally since mid- 2024 incorporate beauty claims (1). The dynamism observed at Vitafoods Europe 2026 confirms that the nutricosmetics market is not only growing in volume but is also undergoing a deeper qualitative transformation. Beauty is being redefined, no longer as an external attribute, but as the visible manifestation of complex, interconnected biological processes. This shift in how beauty is understood reflects a move toward a more holistic approach, where appearance mirrors overall health and links skin condition to factors such as gut microbiome balance, metabolic health, and low-grade inflammation. This mindset is set to define the next generation of nutricosmetics.


1) The next cycle of innovation will render obsolete traditional beauty claims that promise isolated cosmetic results, such as hydration or reduction of wrinkles. Market and scientific research point towards clinically proven, multi-benefit, and personalized beauty claims. Physical appearance is positioned as the visible biomarker of overall health and biological wellbeing. Looking ahead, the following macro trends and product categories are expected to define the landscape in the coming years:


Science-based/clinically proven claims

As consumers increasingly demand scientific validation (2), claims are shifting toward quantified, substantiated benefits. One way to support this is through pharmacokinetic/ADME studies that demonstrate how the body absorbs and uses the ingredient once it is consumed as well as through double-blind, placebo-controlled trials. This applies not only to the supplement industry overall but also to the beauty-related claims. The beauty market is undergoing a ‘clinical shift’, and clinical evidence and transparency are key factors in product selection and trust.


Microbiome and gut-skin axis

The gut–skin axis is one of the most important scientific narratives in beauty supplements. Research supports the strong association between gut dysbiosis and various skin conditions – acne, atopic dermatitis,psoriasis. Microbiota imbalance, gut barrier dysfunction, and immune dysregulation all contribute to skin health outcomes. When the gut barrier is damaged, toxins and food contaminants enter the bloodstream, leading to elevated inflammation. There is a strong rise in probiotic / prebiotic / postbiotic-based products reflecting the increased consumer awareness of the gut–skin–immune connection.


Healthy Aging: From Lifespan to Healthspan

The 12 hallmarks of ageing are the key biological processes driving ageing (3). This framework provides a comprehensive understanding of ageing as the result of multiple interconnected processes and serves as a roadmap to guide interventions, enabling innovative solutions that will support healthy ageing by preserving essential biological functions over time. Oxidative stress regulation, mitochondrial efficiency, cellular senescence regulation, microbiota balance, or inflammatorypathways modulation, they all play a role in both systemic health and physical appearance.


Clean label and transparency

Natural, plant-based, and “free-from” trends remain relevant, but the market is maturing, with increasing demand for ethically sourced ingredients that avoid overexploited marine, plant, or livestock resources. Fermentation-driven solutions offer scalable, and consistent production of bioactive molecules, with lover environmental footprint compared to botanical extracts. Bioengineered microorganisms producing allergen-free and nature-identical ingredients are among the key solutions to address this demand.


Personalization and data-driven solutions

Personalized nutrition is rapidly expanding, driven by advances in AI, digital health, and wearable devices enabling tailored recommendations. Personalized nutricosmetics translates as the integration of supplements with AI-based skin analysis or wearables, allowing consumers to tailor their dosage based on measurable needs.


New delivery forms

Formats are now part of the consumer experience, not just delivery. Nutricosmetics is also shifting from traditional capsules and tablets to more lifestyle friendly formats. Gummies, one of the fastest-growing formats in recent years continue to dominate, while making room for a wider range of delivery forms such as powders, liquids shoots, drinkable solutions, and food-like formats, alongside more innovative options like effervescent, sublingual drops, gels and functional jellies.


3) Beauty is embedded within a broader well-being framework, with the idea that skin health reflects internal physiological balance being supported by a growing body of evidence. This drives innovation from general health categories shifting into the nutricosmetic space. In terms of ingredients, collagen remains the leading category, but the landscape broadens to combinations with collagen with peptides, probiotics, omega 3, vitamins, minerals and metabolites obtained through precision fermentation.


The rise of microbiome-based beauty

Consumers increasingly link microbiota imbalance to skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, sensitivity, and aging. Research on the gut–skin axis highlights key mechanisms—including cytokine-mediated immune modulation, systemic low-grade inflammation (“inflammaging”), and impaired gut barrier integrity—all of which can affect skin resilience, inflammation, and collagen integrity. These insights are driving the microbiome beauty trend, with growing interest in probiotics, postbiotics, and symbiotic to support skin health through gut modulation.


Stress, hormones, metabolic health and beauty-

Elevated cortisol from chronic stress and physiological hormonal fluctuations – in menopause or menstrual cycles- have an impact on skin conditions. High insulin levels increase the risk of developing psoriasis (4). Chronic stress is a recognized trigger or exacerbating factor for acne, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis. Psychological stress increases cortisol and inflammatory mediators, which affects skin barrier function by increasing collagen degradation, reducing antioxidant capacity and accelerating skin ageing (5, 6). Addressing skin health now requires a holistic approach, with products increasingly targeting underlying drivers such as stress, inflammation, metabolic health, hormonal balance and sleep.


9) The convergence of biotechnology and beauty is reshaping how nutricosmetic ingredients are developed, formulated, and perceived. Sustainability must be at the core of innovation and fermentation appears as a key to enabling technology driving this transition. Microorganisms, such as yeast and bacteria, can be used to convert various substrates to natural molecules and metabolites in a way that advantages the conventional chemical production and resource-intensive extraction methods. Fermentation is increasingly recognized as a cornerstone of green innovation in nutricosmetics as it contributes to a circular and bio-based economy by reducing waste, saving water and land use, deforestation, and more (7). The industry is unlocking a new generation of ingredients that combine efficacy, environmental responsibility and sustainability goals.


Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

Trisha Sugarek MacDonald

Akay Bioactives, an Oterra company

Benny Antony

Arjuna Natural

Carlos Morales Ruiz

Aurora Intelligent Nutrition

Juliane Hellhammer

DAACRO

Franziska Schmitt

DAACRO

Annie Liu

DolCas Biotech

KG Rao

DolCas Biotech

Zachin Rao

DolCas Biotech

Miri Eliyahu

Euromonitor International

Magda Starula

Euromonitor International

Aarthi Janakiraman

Everest Group

Dieter Bracke

Fermedics BV

Mike Hughes

FMCG Gurus

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

Silvia Pisoni

Gnosis by Lesaffre

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Lucilla Caricchio

Hylobates Consulting

Johanna Maukonen

IFF Health

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Serena Tongiani

Indena

Volker Spitzer

IQVIA Consumer Health

Stephanie Krammer-Lukas

IQVIA Consumer Health

Tyler Holstein

Kemin Human Nutrition and Health

Alison M. Winger

Key2Biotics

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko

Celia Martin

Lallemand Bio-Ingredients

Elodie Aragon

Lallemand Health Solutions

Chris Kilham

Medicine Hunter

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Pauline Cox

Sow & Arrow

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Belinda Tan

People Science

Colleen Quinn

Colleen Quinn Consultancy

Matevž Ambrožič

PharmaLinea

Maja Orešnik

PharmaLinea

Lucia Barra

Probiotical

Annalisa Visciglia

Probiotical

Walter Fiore

ROELMI HPC

Florencia Moreno Torres

Rousselot

Shaheen Majeed

Sabinsa

Ilaria Campestri

B2B Health & Beauty,
ESG Industrial Processes Expert

Kelly Dobos

Consultant, Cosmetic Chemist

He Li

School of Food & Health
Beijing Technology & Business University

Claire Liu

Seppic

Suyin Perret-Gentil Robespierre

Suannutra

Jennifer Toomey

TopGum Industries

Inbal Nahmias

TopGum Industries

Anu Turpeinen

Valio