Panel discussion on...
Beauty from within
Walter Fiore
Scientific Director, ROELMI HPC

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Questions
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The New Era of Beauty Claims
Where do you see the next cycle of beauty claims heading? What specific benefits are consumers searching for today, and where do you predict the market will move over the next five years? Any exciting innovations you want to share in this regard?
The intersection of GLP-1 with Hair & Skin
With the global rise of GLP-1 weight-loss medications, consumers are experiencing rapid metabolic shifts that often trigger hair loss and "Ozempic skin". How do you see the nutricosmetic segment evolving to support the intersection of beauty and weight management/metabolic health?
Holistic Beauty & The "Well-Beauty" Journey
Real beauty isn't just skin deep. What innovations are you developing to bridge beauty and wellness (e.g., neuro-beauty, mood/stress support, beauty sleep, or the gut-skin axis)? Which ingredients or concepts are currently shifting from other health categories into the nutricosmetic space?
Redefining Beauty Rituals
Topical beauty influencers have set a high bar for self-care beauty ritualsโhow is the nutricosmetic segment catching up? From delivery formats and flavor profiles to fragrance and texture, what is needed to evolve ingestible solutions into a truly joyful daily ritual? And where do you experience the most challenge in this respect?
The K-Beauty Influence
South Korean trends continue to redefine topical skincare. How are these K-Beauty principles being translated into the nutricosmetic industry?
Integrated "In & Out" Journeys
We are moving away from isolated products toward "integrated journeys." What evidence supports the superior efficacy of oral-topical pairings? Furthermore, how can nutricosmetics be better integrated into the dermatology space, accompanying at-home or in-clinic procedures? Is there a difference between different regions in the world?
Nutricosmetics as a Platform for Inclusivity
Skin is the most visible representation of our diversity. How do you research, develop, and market ingredients in a way that thoughtfully addresses differences in gender, ethnicity, and life stages? Any trends you are seeing or innovations you are excited about?
AI & The Feasibility of Hyper-Personalization
In the era of AI, how close are we to truly personalizing "beauty from within"? What are the greatest challenges and opportunities you see in developing ingredients and creating supplements truly tailored to an individualโs unique needs and biological data? Any other uses of AI in this space that you are excited about?
Sustainability & Clean Beauty 3.0
How is your organization addressing the demand for upcycling and "Clean Beauty 3.0"? Are there specific innovations in ingredients, technologies, or research methodologies that you believe the industry must adopt to meet the next generation of eco-conscious consumers?
The Next Phase of "Skinification"
We have seen the "skinification of hair," but where is the future of haircare headed? What "root cause" claims are consumers most seeking, and what is the next category you anticipate will undergo a similar "skinification" transformation?
Precision Solutions for Menopause
With the surge in perimenopause and menopause-specific products, how can we more accurately tailor solutionโโโโโโโs to women in these stages? What has the industry missed, and how can we better serve this demographic?
References and notes
Over the past decade, the beauty landscape has undergone a profound transformation. We have moved from a culture focused on masking imperfections to one that embraces the idea of beauty as a longโterm expression of inner balance. Today, consumers increasingly understand that skin quality is shaped by metabolic efficiency, microbiome harmony, emotional wellโbeing, and the bodyโs ability to adapt to stress. In this evolving context, nutricosmetics are no longer perceived as simple โbeauty supplements,โ but as tools capable of influencing the biological foundations of skin health. The next wave of innovation will be defined by systemic thinking, measurable outcomes, and a more responsible approach to ingredient development.
1) Beauty claims are entering a more mature phaseโone that values scientific meaning over marketing vocabulary. Consumers want visible results, but also clarity on why an ingredient works and how it interacts with the skinโs biology. This evolution is also influenced by the regulatory landscape, which increasingly requires beautyโrelated claims to be supported by measurable and physiologically relevant endpoints.
One of the clearest examples is the rise of skin longevity. Instead of framing aging as something to โfight,โ the conversation is shifting toward supporting the skinโs ability to maintain structure, function, and resilience over time. Claims related to elasticity, barrier integrity, dermal density, and hydration dynamics resonate because they speak to longโterm skin health. This perspective aligns with a broader cultural shift: aging is increasingly seen as a dynamic, adaptable process.
Another area gaining momentum is inflammaging, the chronic lowโgrade inflammation that accelerates visible aging. Consumers intuitively understand the connection between lifestyle, stress, diet, and skin quality. As a result, ingredients that modulate oxidative stress, immune balance, or barrier function are becoming central to the next generation of claimsโespecially when supported by biomarkers that demonstrate systemic benefits.
Microbiomeโrelated claims are also evolving from trend to scientific category. The balance of the skin and gut microbiota influences hydration, sensitivity, and inflammatory responses. Postbiotics, fermented ingredients, and bioโinspired actives are opening new opportunities for claims grounded in ecosystem modulation rather than singleโtarget actions.
Among the most established biomarkers used to substantiate beautyโfromโwithin claims, parameters such as TEWL, skin elasticity, dermal density, collagen organization, and inflammatory markers (e.g., ILโ6, TNFโฮฑ) provide robust and reproducible endpoints.
Looking ahead, the most credible claims will integrate metabolism, inflammation, microbiome, and barrier function into a coherent scientific narrative.
2) The global rise of GLPโ1 medications has created a new biological scenario that the beauty industry cannot ignore. Rapid weight loss often brings visible changes: hair shedding, loss of facial volume, and the soโcalled โOzempic skin.โ These effects reflect shifts in nutrient availability, cellular turnover, and energy allocation.
GLPโ1 agonists reduce appetite and caloric intake, temporarily limiting amino acids, essential fatty acids, and micronutrients required for keratin synthesis and extracellular matrix turnover. These metabolic shifts may also influence insulin and IGFโ1 signaling, both involved in hair follicle cycling. Nutritional support through omegaโ3 and omegaโ6 fatty acids, phytosterols, and selected probiotic strains may help counteract inflammatory and metabolic stress during this transition.
The microbiome also plays a central role. Its influence on nutrient absorption, immune modulation, and metabolic signaling suggests that postbiotics and fermented ingredients may help buffer some of the stress associated with rapid metabolic change.
In the coming years, innovations will increasingly integrate metabolism, skin biology, and hair physiology into unified solutions. This will require new clinical models capable of capturing metabolic, dermatological, and microbiomeโrelated endpoints simultaneously.
Holistic Beauty & the WellโBeauty Journey
3) Holistic beauty is no longer a conceptual trend; it is a biological framework supported by growing scientific evidence. Several interconnected axes shape the skinโs appearance and resilience:
- the gutโskin axis, linking intestinal permeability, microbiome composition, and systemic inflammation
- the gutโbrainโskin axis, where stress, mood, and sleep influence sebum production, sensitivity, and inflammatory responses
- the circadian axis, which regulates repair, barrier renewal, and antioxidant capacity
Although each axis operates through distinct pathways, they are biologically interconnected: gutโderived metabolites influence neuroโimmune signaling, stress hormones modulate intestinal permeability, and circadian rhythms coordinate repair processes across both the gut and the skin.
Innovations in this space increasingly focus on supporting these networks. Probiotics, postbiotics, and fermented ingredients help modulate the gut ecosystem; adaptogenic and neuroโactive compounds support stress resilience; and ingredients aligned with circadian biology help optimize nighttime repair.
A notable trend is the migration of ingredients from other health categories into nutricosmetics. Cognitive support actives, metabolic modulators, and stressโresponse ingredients are being reformulated for beautyโfromโwithin applications, expanding the boundaries of what nutricosmetics can achieve.
6) The future of beauty is not topical or oralโit is integrated. Clinical evidence increasingly shows that combining topical and ingestible solutions can enhance hydration, elasticity, luminosity, and overall skin quality more effectively than either approach alone.
The biological rationale is clear:
- topical products act on the barrier and superficial layers
- ingestible ingredients influence the dermis, extracellular matrix, metabolism, and inflammatory pathways
From a mechanistic perspective, topical formulations reinforce barrier lipids, hydration dynamics, and local inflammatory responses, while ingestible actives modulate fibroblast activity, collagen crossโlinking, systemic inflammatory mediators, and oxidative stress. When combined, these mechanisms converge on both epidermal and dermal compartments, creating a more synchronized repair and renewal response.
This dual approach is particularly relevant in dermatology, where oral support can enhance preโ and postโprocedure recovery for treatments such as chemical peels, laser resurfacing, or microneedling. Ingredients that promote tissue repair, collagen synthesis, or inflammatory balance can improve both patient experience and outcomes.
Integrated clinical designs increasingly evaluate combined endpoints such as TEWL, dermal density, collagen organization, inflammatory biomarkers, and microbiome composition, providing a more holistic view of product performance.
Regionally, Asia has long embraced integrated beauty routines, while Europe and the United States are rapidly catching up. Younger consumers are adopting โinsideโoutโ rituals that combine sensorial pleasure with functional benefits.
9) While sustainability does not determine biological efficacy, it increasingly shapes ingredient development strategies. Consumers expect solutions that combine scientific performance with responsible sourcing, reduced waste, and transparent environmental metrics. The current phaseโoften referred to as Clean Beauty 3.0โdemands transparency, traceability, lifeโcycle assessment, and responsible innovation.
Key innovations include:
- lowโimpact manufacturing processes
- upcycling of byโproducts into highโvalue actives
- biotechnology and fermentation as circular production models
- dataโdriven sustainability metrics
The challenge is methodological: the industry must adopt rigorous tools to assess environmental impact and avoid superficial narratives. As sustainability becomes a core expectation, companies will need to demonstrate not only efficacy but also responsible sourcing, reduced waste, and meaningful environmental stewardship.
Conclusion
The future of nutricosmetics lies in systemic thinking, scientific rigor, and responsible innovation. Beauty will increasingly be viewed as a reflection of internal health, and ingredients will need to address the biological networks that shape skin resilienceโmetabolism, microbiome, inflammation, stress, and repair. The integration of topical and oral solutions, combined with sustainable development practices, will define the next era of beauty from within. As consumers seek solutions that are effective, transparent, and aligned with their values, the industry has an opportunity to redefine beauty as a longโterm expression of wellโbeing.
Panelists
References and notes
- Annalisa Visciglia, Giovanni Deusebio, Angela Amoruso, Marco Pane An Inside-Out Approach to Scalp and Hair Health: ๐๐ฏ ๐๐ช๐ต๐ณ๐ฐ and ๐๐ฏ ๐๐ช๐ท๐ฐ Evidence. Poster from 14๐ต๐ฉ ๐๐ช๐ค๐ณ๐ฐ๐ฃ๐ช๐ฐ๐ฎ๐ฆ ๐&๐ ๐ข๐ฏ๐ฅ ๐๐ถ๐ด๐ช๐ฏ๐ฆ๐ด๐ด ๐๐ฐ๐ญ๐ญ๐ข๐ฃ๐ฐ๐ณ๐ข๐ต๐ช๐ฐ๐ฏ ๐๐ฐ๐ณ๐ถ๐ฎ
















































