Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within and holistic trends

Lucilla Caricchio
Co-Founder, Hylobates Consulting

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Beauty From Within: The Emerging Landscape of Nutricosmetics

1) The next cycle of beauty claims has shifted from a general anti-aging approach to a healthy aging model, focusing on measurable epigenetic aging and cellular longevity, thanks to advances in science and technology. The market is moving toward personalization and multi-functionality. We will see more lifestyle-driven solutions like the startups delivering personalised food supplements tailored directly to individual clinical biomarkers and lifestyle data. In parallel, next-generation ingredients are being developed to target longevity pathways directly, addressing epigenetic alterations or stimulating the body's endogenous collagen repair mechanisms. This creates regulatory challenges regarding, for example, the mandatory food supplement notification processes, which are designed for static formulas intended for the general population or specific population groups. The industry is also addressing the borderline between beauty claims and regulated health claims. While aesthetic appearance claims fall outside the scope of Regulation (EC) 1924/2006 (1), claims referencing cellular longevity, metabolic balance, or epigenetic aging frequently cross the regulatory threshold into health claims, demanding EFSA assessment and Commission authorization. Ingredient innovation faces similar gatekeeping. In fact, while the industry closely monitors the likely Novel Food authorization (Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 (2)) for NMN (Nicotinamide Mononucleotide) the dossiers for new physiological health claims remain highly uncertain. This rigorous standard is evidenced by the recent EFSA and European Commission rejection of a health claim linking creatine to cognitive function due to insufficient cause-and-effect substantiation.


2) The proliferation of GLP-1 receptor agonists has introduced novel clinical challenges. As patients experience rapid, medically induced caloric deficits, secondary consequences such as telogen effluvium (hair shedding) and facial volume loss—commonly named "Ozempic Face"—have become physiological and aesthetic issues. To address these metabolic shifts, the industry is transitioning toward complex physiological support systems utilising botanical modulators to support a healthy body composition and glucose management by targeting AMPK pathways, presenting natural alternatives for metabolic resilience. To mitigate GLP-1-induced shedding, structural innovations in the hair support focus specifically on microcirculation and nutritional delivery directly at the follicular level. However, commercializing products at the intersection of metabolic health and weight-loss medication requires managing a highly scrutinized regulatory borderline in Europe. While formulating to address the nutritional gaps of GLP-1 users could be scientifically substantiated, marketing them as such frequently risks to breach Regulation (EC) 1924/2006 (1) and Directive 2001/83/EC (3). National competent authorities and self-regulatory bodies are enforcing this boundary. The UK Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) recently ruled (4) that comparing food supplements to GLP-1 prescription-only medicines renders them medicinal by presentation. Similarly, in April 2026 the Dutch Keuringsraad (KOAG/KAG) explicitly stated that phrases like "supports GLP-1" suggest an unauthorized pharmacological mechanism (5). The Keuringsraad emphasized that identifying GLP-1 users as a distinct target demographic for supplements is currently not permitted, as a scientifically substantiated deviating nutritional need has yet to be formally recognized.


3) The nutricosmetic segment has undergone a significant transformation in recent years, moving from targeting isolated dermatological imperfections to a comprehensive "Well-Beauty" paradigm. This shift recognizes that skin health is a direct physiological mirror of the gastrointestinal and nervous systems. Gut-derived metabolites, particularly short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) and postbiotics, have been shown to directly influence skin barrier functions, cellular senescence, and UV resilience. To exploit this pathway, a new biotic generation of ingredients is emerging. An example is advanced, colon-targeted riboflavin (Vitamin B2); utilizing specialized delivery technologies to bypass early digestion, it delivers biotic vitamins directly to the colon intact. The intersection of cognitive health, stress resilience, and restorative sleep would play an important role for cellular regeneration and tissue repair. To support this, specific neuro-nutrients are being integrated into nutricosmetic formulations. A notable example is the recently authorized novel food in the EU, magnesium L-threonate. Product development is also focused on mitochondrial health using highly bioavailable Coenzyme Q10, as well as utilizing advanced liposomal delivery and antioxidants like NAD+, Vitamin C, and Glutathione (GSH). Under the EU regulatory framework, modifying the physical state or delivery mechanism of standard nutrients could trigger a Novel Food classification under Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 (2). Additionally, active compounds traditionally known for clinical or sports nutrition applications are now migrating into the holistic beauty space. The main example is creatine; once confined to the sports supplement niche, it is currently being re-evaluated for its role in female physiology, cognitive function, and lifespan-supportive nutrition, representing a massive opportunity in holistic women's wellness.


4) The nutricosmetic segment is rapidly evolving to overcome prevalent pill fatigue by transforming conventional forms into experiential daily rituals. Consumers, conditioned by the sensory-rich application of topical cosmetics, now demand ingestible solutions that deliver both rigorous clinical efficacy and organoleptic pleasure. To address these needs, the industry is diversifying away from traditional tablets and hard capsules toward lifestyle-integrated formats. Recent manufacturing breakthroughs include lipid-friendly chewable matrix technologies. These advanced delivery systems are capable of carrying high concentrated active oils—such as lipid-soluble vitamins and botanical extracts—while effectively masking bitter or astringent off-notes without relying on excessive sugars. Liquid formats are gaining significant commercial traction by offering highly customizable dosing. A prominent recent innovation is a multi-functional liquid matrix combining marine-derived EPA/DHA, olive oil phytonutrients, and fermented ubiquinol (Coenzyme Q10). Moreover, the market is seeing an influx of advanced liquid drops for skin restoration and functional K-beauty inspired beverages, such as botanical-infused coffees and matchas, which seamlessly integrate bioactive compounds into established morning routines. However, elevating the sensory profile of nutricosmetics could present severe technical and regulatory challenges. Ensuring that the stated active dose on the label remains viable throughout the product's entire shelf life in these complex matrices is a significant formulation challenge. From a compliance perspective, masking the off-notes of concentrated marine oils or botanical extracts requires specialized flavourings and texturizers. In the European Union, the use of these excipients should comply with Regulations (EC) 1333/2008 (6) on food additives and (EC) 1334/2008 (7) on flavourings which restrict what can be utilized in food supplements and in general foods. Furthermore, as authorities pay close attention to these delivery mechanisms, such structural modifications risk triggering a Novel Food classification under Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 (2).




Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

Trisha Sugarek MacDonald

Akay Bioactives, an Oterra company

Benny Antony

Arjuna Natural

Carlos Morales Ruiz

Aurora Intelligent Nutrition

Juliane Hellhammer

DAACRO

Franziska Schmitt

DAACRO

Annie Liu

DolCas Biotech

KG Rao

DolCas Biotech

Zachin Rao

DolCas Biotech

Miri Eliyahu

Euromonitor International

Magda Starula

Euromonitor International

Aarthi Janakiraman

Everest Group

Dieter Bracke

Fermedics BV

Mike Hughes

FMCG Gurus

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

Silvia Pisoni

Gnosis by Lesaffre

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Lucilla Caricchio

Hylobates Consulting

Johanna Maukonen

IFF Health

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Serena Tongiani

Indena

Volker Spitzer

IQVIA Consumer Health

Stephanie Krammer-Lukas

IQVIA Consumer Health

Tyler Holstein

Kemin Human Nutrition and Health

Alison M. Winger

Key2Biotics

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko

Celia Martin

Lallemand Bio-Ingredients

Elodie Aragon

Lallemand Health Solutions

Chris Kilham

Medicine Hunter

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Pauline Cox

Sow & Arrow

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Belinda Tan

People Science

Colleen Quinn

Colleen Quinn Consultancy

Matevž Ambrožič

PharmaLinea

Maja Orešnik

PharmaLinea

Lucia Barra

Probiotical

Annalisa Visciglia

Probiotical

Walter Fiore

ROELMI HPC

Florencia Moreno Torres

Rousselot

Shaheen Majeed

Sabinsa

Ilaria Campestri

B2B Health & Beauty,
ESG Industrial Processes Expert

Kelly Dobos

Consultant, Cosmetic Chemist

He Li

School of Food & Health
Beijing Technology & Business University

Claire Liu

Seppic

Suyin Perret-Gentil Robespierre

Suannutra

Jennifer Toomey

TopGum Industries

Inbal Nahmias

TopGum Industries

Anu Turpeinen

Valio