Panel discussion on...
Beauty from within
Lucilla Caricchio
Co-Founder, Hylobates Consulting

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Questions
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The New Era of Beauty Claims
Where do you see the next cycle of beauty claims heading? What specific benefits are consumers searching for today, and where do you predict the market will move over the next five years? Any exciting innovations you want to share in this regard?
The intersection of GLP-1 with Hair & Skin
With the global rise of GLP-1 weight-loss medications, consumers are experiencing rapid metabolic shifts that often trigger hair loss and "Ozempic skin". How do you see the nutricosmetic segment evolving to support the intersection of beauty and weight management/metabolic health?
Holistic Beauty & The "Well-Beauty" Journey
Real beauty isn't just skin deep. What innovations are you developing to bridge beauty and wellness (e.g., neuro-beauty, mood/stress support, beauty sleep, or the gut-skin axis)? Which ingredients or concepts are currently shifting from other health categories into the nutricosmetic space?
Redefining Beauty Rituals
Topical beauty influencers have set a high bar for self-care beauty rituals—how is the nutricosmetic segment catching up? From delivery formats and flavor profiles to fragrance and texture, what is needed to evolve ingestible solutions into a truly joyful daily ritual? And where do you experience the most challenge in this respect?
The K-Beauty Influence
South Korean trends continue to redefine topical skincare. How are these K-Beauty principles being translated into the nutricosmetic industry?
Integrated "In & Out" Journeys
We are moving away from isolated products toward "integrated journeys." What evidence supports the superior efficacy of oral-topical pairings? Furthermore, how can nutricosmetics be better integrated into the dermatology space, accompanying at-home or in-clinic procedures? Is there a difference between different regions in the world?
Nutricosmetics as a Platform for Inclusivity
Skin is the most visible representation of our diversity. How do you research, develop, and market ingredients in a way that thoughtfully addresses differences in gender, ethnicity, and life stages? Any trends you are seeing or innovations you are excited about?
AI & The Feasibility of Hyper-Personalization
In the era of AI, how close are we to truly personalizing "beauty from within"? What are the greatest challenges and opportunities you see in developing ingredients and creating supplements truly tailored to an individual’s unique needs and biological data? Any other uses of AI in this space that you are excited about?
Sustainability & Clean Beauty 3.0
How is your organization addressing the demand for upcycling and "Clean Beauty 3.0"? Are there specific innovations in ingredients, technologies, or research methodologies that you believe the industry must adopt to meet the next generation of eco-conscious consumers?
The Next Phase of "Skinification"
We have seen the "skinification of hair," but where is the future of haircare headed? What "root cause" claims are consumers most seeking, and what is the next category you anticipate will undergo a similar "skinification" transformation?
Precision Solutions for Menopause
With the surge in perimenopause and menopause-specific products, how can we more accurately tailor solutions to women in these stages? What has the industry missed, and how can we better serve this demographic?
References and notes
Beauty From Within: The Emerging Landscape of Nutricosmetics
1) The next cycle of beauty claims has shifted from a general anti-aging approach to a healthy aging model, focusing on measurable epigenetic aging and cellular longevity, thanks to advances in science and technology. The market is moving toward personalization and multi-functionality. We will see more lifestyle-driven solutions like the startups delivering personalised food supplements tailored directly to individual clinical biomarkers and lifestyle data. In parallel, next-generation ingredients are being developed to target longevity pathways directly, addressing epigenetic alterations or stimulating the body's endogenous collagen repair mechanisms. This creates regulatory challenges regarding, for example, the mandatory food supplement notification processes, which are designed for static formulas intended for the general population or specific population groups. The industry is also addressing the borderline between beauty claims and regulated health claims. While aesthetic appearance claims fall outside the scope of Regulation (EC) 1924/2006 (1), claims referencing cellular longevity, metabolic balance, or epigenetic aging frequently cross the regulatory threshold into health claims, demanding EFSA assessment and Commission authorization. Ingredient innovation faces similar gatekeeping. In fact, while the industry closely monitors the likely Novel Food authorization (Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 (2)) for NMN (Nicotinamide Mononucleotide) the dossiers for new physiological health claims remain highly uncertain. This rigorous standard is evidenced by the recent EFSA and European Commission rejection of a health claim linking creatine to cognitive function due to insufficient cause-and-effect substantiation.
2) The proliferation of GLP-1 receptor agonists has introduced novel clinical challenges. As patients experience rapid, medically induced caloric deficits, secondary consequences such as telogen effluvium (hair shedding) and facial volume loss—commonly named "Ozempic Face"—have become physiological and aesthetic issues. To address these metabolic shifts, the industry is transitioning toward complex physiological support systems utilising botanical modulators to support a healthy body composition and glucose management by targeting AMPK pathways, presenting natural alternatives for metabolic resilience. To mitigate GLP-1-induced shedding, structural innovations in the hair support focus specifically on microcirculation and nutritional delivery directly at the follicular level. However, commercializing products at the intersection of metabolic health and weight-loss medication requires managing a highly scrutinized regulatory borderline in Europe. While formulating to address the nutritional gaps of GLP-1 users could be scientifically substantiated, marketing them as such frequently risks to breach Regulation (EC) 1924/2006 (1) and Directive 2001/83/EC (3). National competent authorities and self-regulatory bodies are enforcing this boundary. The UK Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) recently ruled (4) that comparing food supplements to GLP-1 prescription-only medicines renders them medicinal by presentation. Similarly, in April 2026 the Dutch Keuringsraad (KOAG/KAG) explicitly stated that phrases like "supports GLP-1" suggest an unauthorized pharmacological mechanism (5). The Keuringsraad emphasized that identifying GLP-1 users as a distinct target demographic for supplements is currently not permitted, as a scientifically substantiated deviating nutritional need has yet to be formally recognized.
3) The nutricosmetic segment has undergone a significant transformation in recent years, moving from targeting isolated dermatological imperfections to a comprehensive "Well-Beauty" paradigm. This shift recognizes that skin health is a direct physiological mirror of the gastrointestinal and nervous systems. Gut-derived metabolites, particularly short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) and postbiotics, have been shown to directly influence skin barrier functions, cellular senescence, and UV resilience. To exploit this pathway, a new biotic generation of ingredients is emerging. An example is advanced, colon-targeted riboflavin (Vitamin B2); utilizing specialized delivery technologies to bypass early digestion, it delivers biotic vitamins directly to the colon intact. The intersection of cognitive health, stress resilience, and restorative sleep would play an important role for cellular regeneration and tissue repair. To support this, specific neuro-nutrients are being integrated into nutricosmetic formulations. A notable example is the recently authorized novel food in the EU, magnesium L-threonate. Product development is also focused on mitochondrial health using highly bioavailable Coenzyme Q10, as well as utilizing advanced liposomal delivery and antioxidants like NAD+, Vitamin C, and Glutathione (GSH). Under the EU regulatory framework, modifying the physical state or delivery mechanism of standard nutrients could trigger a Novel Food classification under Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 (2). Additionally, active compounds traditionally known for clinical or sports nutrition applications are now migrating into the holistic beauty space. The main example is creatine; once confined to the sports supplement niche, it is currently being re-evaluated for its role in female physiology, cognitive function, and lifespan-supportive nutrition, representing a massive opportunity in holistic women's wellness.
4) The nutricosmetic segment is rapidly evolving to overcome prevalent pill fatigue by transforming conventional forms into experiential daily rituals. Consumers, conditioned by the sensory-rich application of topical cosmetics, now demand ingestible solutions that deliver both rigorous clinical efficacy and organoleptic pleasure. To address these needs, the industry is diversifying away from traditional tablets and hard capsules toward lifestyle-integrated formats. Recent manufacturing breakthroughs include lipid-friendly chewable matrix technologies. These advanced delivery systems are capable of carrying high concentrated active oils—such as lipid-soluble vitamins and botanical extracts—while effectively masking bitter or astringent off-notes without relying on excessive sugars. Liquid formats are gaining significant commercial traction by offering highly customizable dosing. A prominent recent innovation is a multi-functional liquid matrix combining marine-derived EPA/DHA, olive oil phytonutrients, and fermented ubiquinol (Coenzyme Q10). Moreover, the market is seeing an influx of advanced liquid drops for skin restoration and functional K-beauty inspired beverages, such as botanical-infused coffees and matchas, which seamlessly integrate bioactive compounds into established morning routines. However, elevating the sensory profile of nutricosmetics could present severe technical and regulatory challenges. Ensuring that the stated active dose on the label remains viable throughout the product's entire shelf life in these complex matrices is a significant formulation challenge. From a compliance perspective, masking the off-notes of concentrated marine oils or botanical extracts requires specialized flavourings and texturizers. In the European Union, the use of these excipients should comply with Regulations (EC) 1333/2008 (6) on food additives and (EC) 1334/2008 (7) on flavourings which restrict what can be utilized in food supplements and in general foods. Furthermore, as authorities pay close attention to these delivery mechanisms, such structural modifications risk triggering a Novel Food classification under Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 (2).
Panelists
References and notes
- REGULATION (EC) No 1924/2006 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 20 December 2006 on nutrition and health claims made on foods
https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/HTML/?uri=CELEX:02006R1924-20141213&qid=1780673989478 - REGULATION (EU) 2015/2283 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 25 November 2015 on novel foods, amending Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011 of the European Parliament and of the Council and repealing Regulation (EC) No 258/97 of the European Parliament and of the Council and Commission Regulation (EC) No 1852/2001
https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A02015R2283-20210327&qid=1780674126387 - DIRECTIVE 2001/83/EC OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 6 November 2001 on the Community code relating to medicinal products for human use
https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A02001L0083-20250101&qid=1780674253824 - ASA Ruling on GLP-1 Pro Ltd t/a GuLP-1 – Upheld - 06 May 2026
https://www.asa.org.uk/rulings/glp-1-pro-ltd-a25-1317723-glp-1-pro-ltd.html - GLP-1 en voedingssupplementen: wat mag je communiceren?
https://keuringsraad.nl/glp-1-en-voedingssupplementen-wat-mag-je-communiceren/ - REGULATION (EC) No 1333/2008 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 16 December 2008 on food additives
https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A02008R1333-20260218&qid=1780674591204 - REGULATION (EC) No 1334/2008 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 16 December 2008 on flavourings and certain food ingredients with flavouring properties for use in and on foods and amending Council Regulation (EEC) No 1601/91, Regulations (EC) No 2232/96 and (EC) No 110/2008 and Directive 2000/13/EC
https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A02008R1334-20260216&qid=1780674684064
















































