Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within

Lucilla Caricchio
Co-Founder, Hylobates Consulting

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Beauty From Within: The Emerging Landscape of Nutricosmetics

1) The next cycle of beauty claims has shifted from a general anti-aging approach to a healthy aging model, focusing on measurable epigenetic aging and cellular longevity, thanks to advances in science and technology. The market is moving toward personalization and multi-functionality. We will see more lifestyle-driven solutions like the startups delivering personalised food supplements tailored directly to individual clinical biomarkers and lifestyle data. In parallel, next-generation ingredients are being developed to target longevity pathways directly, addressing epigenetic alterations or stimulating the body's endogenous collagen repair mechanisms. This creates regulatory challenges regarding, for example, the mandatory food supplement notification processes, which are designed for static formulas intended for the general population or specific population groups. The industry is also addressing the borderline between beauty claims and regulated health claims. While aesthetic appearance claims fall outside the scope of Regulation (EC) 1924/2006 (1), claims referencing cellular longevity, metabolic balance, or epigenetic aging frequently cross the regulatory threshold into health claims, demanding EFSA assessment and Commission authorization. Ingredient innovation faces similar gatekeeping. In fact, while the industry closely monitors the likely Novel Food authorization (Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 (2)) for NMN (Nicotinamide Mononucleotide) the dossiers for new physiological health claims remain highly uncertain. This rigorous standard is evidenced by the recent EFSA and European Commission rejection of a health claim linking creatine to cognitive function due to insufficient cause-and-effect substantiation.


2) The proliferation of GLP-1 receptor agonists has introduced novel clinical challenges. As patients experience rapid, medically induced caloric deficits, secondary consequences such as telogen effluvium (hair shedding) and facial volume loss—commonly named "Ozempic Face"—have become physiological and aesthetic issues. To address these metabolic shifts, the industry is transitioning toward complex physiological support systems utilising botanical modulators to support a healthy body composition and glucose management by targeting AMPK pathways, presenting natural alternatives for metabolic resilience. To mitigate GLP-1-induced shedding, structural innovations in the hair support focus specifically on microcirculation and nutritional delivery directly at the follicular level. However, commercializing products at the intersection of metabolic health and weight-loss medication requires managing a highly scrutinized regulatory borderline in Europe. While formulating to address the nutritional gaps of GLP-1 users could be scientifically substantiated, marketing them as such frequently risks to breach Regulation (EC) 1924/2006 (1) and Directive 2001/83/EC (3). National competent authorities and self-regulatory bodies are enforcing this boundary. The UK Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) recently ruled (4) that comparing food supplements to GLP-1 prescription-only medicines renders them medicinal by presentation. Similarly, in April 2026 the Dutch Keuringsraad (KOAG/KAG) explicitly stated that phrases like "supports GLP-1" suggest an unauthorized pharmacological mechanism (5). The Keuringsraad emphasized that identifying GLP-1 users as a distinct target demographic for supplements is currently not permitted, as a scientifically substantiated deviating nutritional need has yet to be formally recognized.


3) The nutricosmetic segment has undergone a significant transformation in recent years, moving from targeting isolated dermatological imperfections to a comprehensive "Well-Beauty" paradigm. This shift recognizes that skin health is a direct physiological mirror of the gastrointestinal and nervous systems. Gut-derived metabolites, particularly short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) and postbiotics, have been shown to directly influence skin barrier functions, cellular senescence, and UV resilience. To exploit this pathway, a new biotic generation of ingredients is emerging. An example is advanced, colon-targeted riboflavin (Vitamin B2); utilizing specialized delivery technologies to bypass early digestion, it delivers biotic vitamins directly to the colon intact. The intersection of cognitive health, stress resilience, and restorative sleep would play an important role for cellular regeneration and tissue repair. To support this, specific neuro-nutrients are being integrated into nutricosmetic formulations. A notable example is the recently authorized novel food in the EU, magnesium L-threonate. Product development is also focused on mitochondrial health using highly bioavailable Coenzyme Q10, as well as utilizing advanced liposomal delivery and antioxidants like NAD+, Vitamin C, and Glutathione (GSH). Under the EU regulatory framework, modifying the physical state or delivery mechanism of standard nutrients could trigger a Novel Food classification under Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 (2). Additionally, active compounds traditionally known for clinical or sports nutrition applications are now migrating into the holistic beauty space. The main example is creatine; once confined to the sports supplement niche, it is currently being re-evaluated for its role in female physiology, cognitive function, and lifespan-supportive nutrition, representing a massive opportunity in holistic women's wellness.


4) The nutricosmetic segment is rapidly evolving to overcome prevalent pill fatigue by transforming conventional forms into experiential daily rituals. Consumers, conditioned by the sensory-rich application of topical cosmetics, now demand ingestible solutions that deliver both rigorous clinical efficacy and organoleptic pleasure. To address these needs, the industry is diversifying away from traditional tablets and hard capsules toward lifestyle-integrated formats. Recent manufacturing breakthroughs include lipid-friendly chewable matrix technologies. These advanced delivery systems are capable of carrying high concentrated active oils—such as lipid-soluble vitamins and botanical extracts—while effectively masking bitter or astringent off-notes without relying on excessive sugars. Liquid formats are gaining significant commercial traction by offering highly customizable dosing. A prominent recent innovation is a multi-functional liquid matrix combining marine-derived EPA/DHA, olive oil phytonutrients, and fermented ubiquinol (Coenzyme Q10). Moreover, the market is seeing an influx of advanced liquid drops for skin restoration and functional K-beauty inspired beverages, such as botanical-infused coffees and matchas, which seamlessly integrate bioactive compounds into established morning routines. However, elevating the sensory profile of nutricosmetics could present severe technical and regulatory challenges. Ensuring that the stated active dose on the label remains viable throughout the product's entire shelf life in these complex matrices is a significant formulation challenge. From a compliance perspective, masking the off-notes of concentrated marine oils or botanical extracts requires specialized flavourings and texturizers. In the European Union, the use of these excipients should comply with Regulations (EC) 1333/2008 (6) on food additives and (EC) 1334/2008 (7) on flavourings which restrict what can be utilized in food supplements and in general foods. Furthermore, as authorities pay close attention to these delivery mechanisms, such structural modifications risk triggering a Novel Food classification under Regulation (EU) 2015/2283 (2).




Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

James Kyffin

ADM

Colton Clason

ADM

Lindsay Sumners

ADM

Sathya Sooryan

Arjuna Natural Animal Nutrition

Dom Orlandi

Aroma New Zealand

Alexandra Wesker

Aseno

Vincent Wood

AstaReal

Behnaz Shakersain

AstaReal

Karen Hecht

AstaReal

Claudio Isenburg

Cerbios-Pharma SA

Leah Bessa

De Novo Foodlabs

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Veronique Brun

Biotexia (formerly known as Fytexia)

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Armando Antonelli

Hylobates Consulting

Isabella Corsato Alvarenga

IFF Pet

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Renee Machen

IFF Pet

Antonella Riva

Indena

Dayna Lozon

Intertek Assuris

Brandon Walters

Intertek Assuris

Ray A. Matulka

Intertek Assuris

J.F. (Jake) Burlet

CanBiocin Inc.

Ronaldo Avella Lavado

Pda (Paul Dick Associates)

On behalf of International Probiotics Association (IPA)

Aida Gadzhieva

IQVIA

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko USA

Francesca Susca

Lallemand Animal Nutrition

Cassandre Dujardin

Lallemand Health Solutions

Mary Joe Fernandez

Layn Natural Ingredients

Jessica Simonis

Clinical Nutritionist

Rajiv Khatau

Lodaat Pharma

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Guus Kortman

NIZO Food Research

Thaila Cristina Putarov

Phileo by Lesaffre

Russ Kelley

Phileo by Lesaffre

Bernadette Beadle

Phileo by Lesaffre

Alicia Kasch

RIBUS

Steve Peirce

RIBUS

Maggie McNamara

Saanroo

Shaheen Majeed

Sami-Sabinsa Group

Linda Carola Baggi

Sacco Srl

Salma Zahidi

Seppic

Cem Dik

Syensqo

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Noah Craft

People Science

Lindsey Wendt

Crystal Lotus Veterinary Care