Panel discussion on...
Beauty from within
Johanna Maukonen , Arthur C. Ouwehand
IFF Health


Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board


Questions
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The New Era of Beauty Claims
Where do you see the next cycle of beauty claims heading? What specific benefits are consumers searching for today, and where do you predict the market will move over the next five years? Any exciting innovations you want to share in this regard?
The intersection of GLP-1 with Hair & Skin
With the global rise of GLP-1 weight-loss medications, consumers are experiencing rapid metabolic shifts that often trigger hair loss and "Ozempic skin". How do you see the nutricosmetic segment evolving to support the intersection of beauty and weight management/metabolic health?
Holistic Beauty & The "Well-Beauty" Journey
Real beauty isn't just skin deep. What innovations are you developing to bridge beauty and wellness (e.g., neuro-beauty, mood/stress support, beauty sleep, or the gut-skin axis)? Which ingredients or concepts are currently shifting from other health categories into the nutricosmetic space?
Redefining Beauty Rituals
Topical beauty influencers have set a high bar for self-care beauty rituals—how is the nutricosmetic segment catching up? From delivery formats and flavor profiles to fragrance and texture, what is needed to evolve ingestible solutions into a truly joyful daily ritual? And where do you experience the most challenge in this respect?
The K-Beauty Influence
South Korean trends continue to redefine topical skincare. How are these K-Beauty principles being translated into the nutricosmetic industry?
Integrated "In & Out" Journeys
We are moving away from isolated products toward "integrated journeys." What evidence supports the superior efficacy of oral-topical pairings? Furthermore, how can nutricosmetics be better integrated into the dermatology space, accompanying at-home or in-clinic procedures? Is there a difference between different regions in the world?
Nutricosmetics as a Platform for Inclusivity
Skin is the most visible representation of our diversity. How do you research, develop, and market ingredients in a way that thoughtfully addresses differences in gender, ethnicity, and life stages? Any trends you are seeing or innovations you are excited about?
AI & The Feasibility of Hyper-Personalization
In the era of AI, how close are we to truly personalizing "beauty from within"? What are the greatest challenges and opportunities you see in developing ingredients and creating supplements truly tailored to an individual’s unique needs and biological data? Any other uses of AI in this space that you are excited about?
Sustainability & Clean Beauty 3.0
How is your organization addressing the demand for upcycling and "Clean Beauty 3.0"? Are there specific innovations in ingredients, technologies, or research methodologies that you believe the industry must adopt to meet the next generation of eco-conscious consumers?
The Next Phase of "Skinification"
We have seen the "skinification of hair," but where is the future of haircare headed? What "root cause" claims are consumers most seeking, and what is the next category you anticipate will undergo a similar "skinification" transformation?
Precision Solutions for Menopause
With the surge in perimenopause and menopause-specific products, how can we more accurately tailor solutions to women in these stages? What has the industry missed, and how can we better serve this demographic?
References and notes
Beyond Skin Deep: The Future of Nutricosmetics
1) Cosmetics have been used for as long as humans have been around, there is evidence that early Neaderthals may have decorated themselves with ochre (hematite) 200-250 000 years ago. We have come a long way since then with specific cosmetics for different skin types, ethnicities, ages, etc. This does not mean no progress is to be expected. Cosmetic development will be driven by fashion, which is difficult to predict. The trend for natural ingredients is likely to persist. In this perspective, postbiotics have been more rapidly accepted in cosmetics than in almost any other market segment. Microbial extracts and lysates have been used in cosmetics before the term postbiotic was mainstream. Beauty from within is nothing new, skin has long been seen as a mirror of internal health and ageing. Many nutrients have been linked to skin health and appearance. For probiotics this is relatively new. In 2007 a beauty yogurt was launched in France, Danone Essensis. However, the product was withdrawn from the market two years later. The time was not ripe for this idea. That is changing and is driven by science, documenting that specific probiotic strains can improve skin health and appearance, such as Bifidobacterium lactis Bl-04 that has been shown to significantly ameliorate multiple facial skin wrinkle parameters (total wrinkle area and volume, average depth of wrinkles, and arithmetic average roughness (Ra)) versus placebo during the winter season (1).
2)GLP-1 receptor agonists (GLP-1RA, known as e.g. Ozempic and Wegovy) may lead to undesirable cosmetic side effects. One is increased risk of hair loss. This is potentially caused by an early shift of hair follicles into shedding phase. Hair loss is, of course, not limited to GLP-1RA use. Some of it is genetically determined, such as male-pattern baldness for which hair transplant seems to be the only treatment. Deficiencies in micronutrients such as vitamin A, B7 (biotin), B9 (folate), B12 (cobalamin) and D, and zinc and iron (ferritin) are associated with hair loss. However, evidence that supplementation beyond deficiency positively affects hair loss is inconclusive. Nevertheless, a recent meta-analysis concluded that polyphenols, orally and topically, may provide similar benefits on hair density and hair count as minoxidil.
When GLP-1RA are used for weight loss, the loss of body fat is desirable. However, this will also lead to loss of fat in the face and buttocks, this maybe less appealing. Further, skin elasticity may be reduced and not able to keep up with the changing body shape due to fat loss. Improving skin elasticity may provide some benefit. Here too certain vitamins such as thiamine, riboflavin, folate, vitamins B6, B12 and C maybe beneficial. For collagen, reasonable evidence exists it can support skin elasticity and maybe beneficial also in the management of GLP-1RA induced skin issues.
Despite the introduction of GLP-1RA, nutritional solutions for weight management are still relevant, especially in cases where people want to reduce their dependence on these drugs. Various nutritional components have been suggested to be able to play a role here: macro nutrients such as dietary fibre and protein, and pre- and probiotics to influence the gut microbiota-brain axis, polyphenols and capsaicinoids.
3) Beauty is of course more than skin deep and relates to self-confidence and self-image. Having the opportunity to rest and be free from stress plays an important role here. Melatonin is probably what comes to mind first, as well as tryptophan as a precursor of serotonin which can be converted to melatonin in the pineal gland. The conversion regulates our circadian rhythm. Various nutrients influence sleep quality. Higher intake of dietary polyphenols is associated with better sleep quality in adults. Gamma Amino Butyric Acid (GABA) is an important neurotransmitter in sleep regulation. However, GABA does not pass the blood-brain-barrier. The role of oral GABA supplementation or GABA producing probiotics remains therefore to be elucidated.
Yet, through modulating the gut-brain-axis probiotics such as Lacticaseibacillus paracasei Lpc-37 have been documented to reduce perceived stress (2). Indirectly, this of course also improves sleep quality and self-confidence. Interestingly, L. paracasei Lpc-37 has also been shown to help feel significantly more rested after a night's sleep in a higher-stress population as compared to placebo.
Another interesting angle in skin research is the interconnection between immune health and skin beauty. One practical example of this is the research conducted with B. lactis Bl-04. B. lactis Bl-04 was initially shown to improve immune health in clinical studies. Thereafter, based on in vitro results with human dermal fibroblasts, it was chosen to move forward to a human clinical study, in which B. lactis Bl-04 reduced wrinkle depth and volume during the winter season (1).
11) Menopause, but also andropause, are a natural process as part of ageing. The former is more abrupt than the latter and may be more debilitating. As part of healthy ageing, there are various nutritional solutions available to help manage the symptoms of menopause. A recent consumer perception study showed that a combination of a L. paracasei Lpc-37, soy isoflavones and lemon balm extract was reported to significantly reduce hot flashes and improve sleep, fatigue and vitality as compared to baseline (3). Significant improvements in symptoms were reported already after 15 days and continued to improve until the end of the study at 60 days. Although andropause is very different from menopause, some of the symptoms are the same such as reduced muscle mass, increased fat mass and reduced bone mineral density, and sleep disturbances. In both cases, micronutrients such as vitamins B6 (pyridoxin), D and K, and calcium and zinc are important. However, evidence that supplementation beyond deficiency positively affects the symptoms is inconclusive.
Similar as in health and wellbeing, also in beauty, diet and lifestyle are determining factors. While nutritional supplementation can help, it can and should not replace a healthy diet and lifestyle. A varied diet rich in fruits and vegetables and an active lifestyle are a starting point. Dietary supplements do exactly that: supplementing the diet.
Panelists
References and notes
- Bifidobacterium animalis subsp. lactis Bl‐04 on skin wrinkles and dryness: a randomized, triple‐blinded, placebo‐controlled clinical trial. Dermato. 2022;2:30–53.
- Patterson E, Griffin SM, Ibarra A, Ellsiepen E, Hellhammer J. Lacticaseibacillus paracasei Lpc-37® improves psychological and physiological markers of stress and anxiety in healthy adults: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled and parallel clinical trial (the Sisu study). Neurobiol Stress. 2020;13:100277.
- Kailanto HM, Ouwehand AC. Evaluation of an innovative formulation for menopausal women: Consumer Perception and Ingredient-Based Clinical Evidence for Menopause-Related Discomforts. AgroFood Industry HiTech. 2026;37(1):18–21.
















































