Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within and holistic trends

Johanna Maukonen      , Arthur C. Ouwehand
IFF Health

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

 Beyond Skin Deep: The Future of Nutricosmetics

1) Cosmetics have been used for as long as humans have been around, there is evidence that early Neaderthals may have decorated themselves with ochre (hematite) 200-250 000 years ago. We have come a long way since then with specific cosmetics for different skin types, ethnicities, ages, etc. This does not mean no progress is to be expected. Cosmetic development will be driven by fashion, which is difficult to predict. The trend for natural ingredients is likely to persist. In this perspective, postbiotics have been more rapidly accepted in cosmetics than in almost any other market segment. Microbial extracts and lysates have been used in cosmetics before the term postbiotic was mainstream. Beauty from within is nothing new, skin has long been seen as a mirror of internal health and ageing. Many nutrients have been linked to skin health and appearance. For probiotics this is relatively new. In 2007 a beauty yogurt was launched in France, Danone Essensis. However, the product was withdrawn from the market two years later. The time was not ripe for this idea. That is changing and is driven by science, documenting that specific probiotic strains can improve skin health and appearance, such as Bifidobacterium lactis Bl-04 that has been shown to significantly ameliorate multiple facial skin wrinkle parameters (total wrinkle area and volume, average depth of wrinkles, and arithmetic average roughness (Ra)) versus placebo during the winter season (1).


2)GLP-1 receptor agonists (GLP-1RA, known as e.g. Ozempic and Wegovy) may lead to undesirable cosmetic side effects. One is increased risk of hair loss. This is potentially caused by an early shift of hair follicles into shedding phase. Hair loss is, of course, not limited to GLP-1RA use. Some of it is genetically determined, such as male-pattern baldness for which hair transplant seems to be the only treatment. Deficiencies in micronutrients such as vitamin A, B7 (biotin), B9 (folate), B12 (cobalamin) and D, and zinc and iron (ferritin) are associated with hair loss. However, evidence that supplementation beyond deficiency positively affects hair loss is inconclusive. Nevertheless, a recent meta-analysis concluded that polyphenols, orally and topically, may provide similar benefits on hair density and hair count as minoxidil.


When GLP-1RA are used for weight loss, the loss of body fat is desirable. However, this will also lead to loss of fat in the face and buttocks, this maybe less appealing. Further, skin elasticity may be reduced and not able to keep up with the changing body shape due to fat loss. Improving skin elasticity may provide some benefit. Here too certain vitamins such as thiamine, riboflavin, folate, vitamins B6, B12 and C maybe beneficial. For collagen, reasonable evidence exists it can support skin elasticity and maybe beneficial also in the management of GLP-1RA induced skin issues.


Despite the introduction of GLP-1RA, nutritional solutions for weight management are still relevant, especially in cases where people want to reduce their dependence on these drugs. Various nutritional components have been suggested to be able to play a role here: macro nutrients such as dietary fibre and protein, and pre- and probiotics to influence the gut microbiota-brain axis, polyphenols and capsaicinoids.


3) Beauty is of course more than skin deep and relates to self-confidence and self-image. Having the opportunity to rest and be free from stress plays an important role here. Melatonin is probably what comes to mind first, as well as tryptophan as a precursor of serotonin which can be converted to melatonin in the pineal gland. The conversion regulates our circadian rhythm. Various nutrients influence sleep quality. Higher intake of dietary polyphenols is associated with better sleep quality in adults. Gamma Amino Butyric Acid (GABA) is an important neurotransmitter in sleep regulation. However, GABA does not pass the blood-brain-barrier. The role of oral GABA supplementation or GABA producing probiotics remains therefore to be elucidated.


Yet, through modulating the gut-brain-axis probiotics such as Lacticaseibacillus paracasei Lpc-37 have been documented to reduce perceived stress (2). Indirectly, this of course also improves sleep quality and self-confidence. Interestingly, L. paracasei Lpc-37 has also been shown to help feel significantly more rested after a night's sleep in a higher-stress population as compared to placebo.


Another interesting angle in skin research is the interconnection between immune health and skin beauty. One practical example of this is the research conducted with B. lactis Bl-04. B. lactis Bl-04 was initially shown to improve immune health in clinical studies. Thereafter, based on in vitro results with human dermal fibroblasts, it was chosen to move forward to a human clinical study, in which B. lactis Bl-04 reduced wrinkle depth and volume during the winter season (1).


11) Menopause, but also andropause, are a natural process as part of ageing. The former is more abrupt than the latter and may be more debilitating. As part of healthy ageing, there are various nutritional solutions available to help manage the symptoms of menopause. A recent consumer perception study showed that a combination of a L. paracasei Lpc-37, soy isoflavones and lemon balm extract was reported to significantly reduce hot flashes and improve sleep, fatigue and vitality as compared to baseline (3). Significant improvements in symptoms were reported already after 15 days and continued to improve until the end of the study at 60 days. Although andropause is very different from menopause, some of the symptoms are the same such as reduced muscle mass, increased fat mass and reduced bone mineral density, and sleep disturbances. In both cases, micronutrients such as vitamins B6 (pyridoxin), D and K, and calcium and zinc are important. However, evidence that supplementation beyond deficiency positively affects the symptoms is inconclusive.



Similar as in health and wellbeing, also in beauty, diet and lifestyle are determining factors. While nutritional supplementation can help, it can and should not replace a healthy diet and lifestyle. A varied diet rich in fruits and vegetables and an active lifestyle are a starting point. Dietary supplements do exactly that: supplementing the diet.




Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

Trisha Sugarek MacDonald

Akay Bioactives, an Oterra company

Benny Antony

Arjuna Natural

Carlos Morales Ruiz

Aurora Intelligent Nutrition

Juliane Hellhammer

DAACRO

Franziska Schmitt

DAACRO

Annie Liu

DolCas Biotech

KG Rao

DolCas Biotech

Zachin Rao

DolCas Biotech

Miri Eliyahu

Euromonitor International

Magda Starula

Euromonitor International

Aarthi Janakiraman

Everest Group

Dieter Bracke

Fermedics BV

Mike Hughes

FMCG Gurus

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

Silvia Pisoni

Gnosis by Lesaffre

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Lucilla Caricchio

Hylobates Consulting

Johanna Maukonen

IFF Health

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Serena Tongiani

Indena

Volker Spitzer

IQVIA Consumer Health

Stephanie Krammer-Lukas

IQVIA Consumer Health

Tyler Holstein

Kemin Human Nutrition and Health

Alison M. Winger

Key2Biotics

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko

Celia Martin

Lallemand Bio-Ingredients

Elodie Aragon

Lallemand Health Solutions

Chris Kilham

Medicine Hunter

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Pauline Cox

Sow & Arrow

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Belinda Tan

People Science

Colleen Quinn

Colleen Quinn Consultancy

Matevž Ambrožič

PharmaLinea

Maja Orešnik

PharmaLinea

Lucia Barra

Probiotical

Annalisa Visciglia

Probiotical

Walter Fiore

ROELMI HPC

Florencia Moreno Torres

Rousselot

Shaheen Majeed

Sabinsa

Ilaria Campestri

B2B Health & Beauty,
ESG Industrial Processes Expert

Kelly Dobos

Consultant, Cosmetic Chemist

He Li

School of Food & Health
Beijing Technology & Business University

Claire Liu

Seppic

Suyin Perret-Gentil Robespierre

Suannutra

Jennifer Toomey

TopGum Industries

Inbal Nahmias

TopGum Industries

Anu Turpeinen

Valio