Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within

Serena Tongiani, PhD
Chief Portfolio Officer, Indena

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Beauty From Within: The Emerging Landscape of Nutricosmetics

3) In the broader “self-care” landscape, the beauty industry is probably the sector undergoing the deepest transformation of the last few decades. Initially focused on personal care through the use of topical products mainly intended for aesthetic purposes, the industry has more recently recognized the need to also “nurture” the good appearance from within. This second phase led to the rise of nutricosmetics, a category that has experienced dramatic growth through the increasing use of supplements and oral formulations designed to support specific skin health parameters such as density, elasticity, hydration, and overall appearance by acting on internal biological pathways, including inflammation and oxidative stress.


However, the most interesting transformation is the one taking place today, as nutricosmetics move far beyond traditional aesthetics toward a more holistic concept of “beauty from within”, deeply connected to the idea of healthy aging.


True beauty is no longer perceived as merely skin deep; rather, skin health is increasingly recognized as a reflection of the body’s internal balance, closely linked to physical, emotional, and metabolic wellbeing. In this context, the nutricosmetics market is evolving into a broader “well-beauty” space, where beauty solutions are designed not only to improve appearance, but also to support long-term health, resilience, and quality of life.


What may appear to be a simple marketing trend is actually rooted in profound changes in people health conditions. Over the years, human longevity has increased due to multiple factors. A 40-year-old in the 1950s would likely have faced greater health risks from smoking, less advanced medical care, harsher working conditions, and less sophisticated beauty standards, while also living within a social and economic context shaped by the post-Great Depression era. In contrast, a 40-year-old today benefits from longer life expectancy, improved healthcare, greater technological access, and evolving social norms. The chronological age may be the same, but the appearance and overall health profile are completely different.


Accordingly, healthy aging has become a major driver shaping the future of holistic beauty. Consumers are no longer focused only on extending “lifespan”, but rather on enhancing “healthspan”, meaning the period of life spent in good physical, cognitive, and emotional health. A healthy and vibrant appearance is now perceived as a visible reflection of internal vitality and wellbeing, creating a two-way relationship between good appearance and good health.

In this scenario, where holistic wellbeing is central, there is increasing demand for science-backed solutions capable of rebalancing inflammatory response, oxidative stress, hormonal status, emotional wellbeing, sleep quality, detoxification processes, and even gut health. When these systems function harmoniously, the skin appears more radiant, elastic, and youthful.


Botanical and natural ingredients are playing a central role in this evolution. Rich in antioxidants, polyphenols, and bioactive compounds, botanicals show pleiotropic properties that can support improvements at the cellular level, physical performance, and overall appearance, contributing to both wellness and visible beauty outcomes.


Botanical extracts from Brassica oleracea vegetables, for example, are attracting growing attention for their role in activating cellular detoxification and antioxidant pathways. They are studied for their ability to help protect the skin against environmental stressors such as UV radiation and oxidative damage, while also supporting skin nourishment and healthy aging. This demonstrates how ingredients traditionally associated with wellbeing and detoxification are now becoming highly relevant within the nutricosmetics sector.


Not only traditional botanicals, but also advanced delivery systems can further optimize their health benefits by overcoming challenges such as poor oral bioabsorption and maximizing efficacy for skin health, vitality, and healthy aging.


Common plants such as Centella asiatica, traditionally used in both topical formulations and nutricosmetics, can further enhance their benefits through innovative technologies. A new centella extract formulated with phospholipids to improve bioabsorption and biological performance has now been scientifically shown to support collagen production and preservation against degradation, protect skin cells from oxidative stress, and contribute to skin repair and renewal to a greater extent than the unformulated extract. Clinical studies have also demonstrated its efficacy in improving skin firmness and elasticity, with supplemented subjects showing skin that appeared up to five years younger at the end of the supplementation. These multiple benefits perfectly align with the new holistic beauty philosophy: as natural collagen production declines with age, consumers are increasingly seeking solutions that support the body’s own collagen synthesis processes, while approaching skin health as part of broader physiological wellbeing.


In addition, natural ingredients traditionally used for relaxation and sleep support are being repositioned within beauty supplements to promote restorative sleep while simultaneously enhancing skin vitality and radiance. Lemon balm extract represents a good example: when combined with innovative delivery systems, including phospholipid-based technologies, it has been shown to help rebalance mood and emotional wellbeing while improving sleep quality and duration. The emerging field of “neuro-beauty”, which explores the connection between the nervous system, emotional wellbeing, and skin appearance, is becoming one of the most relevant areas of innovation.


Today, the evolution of the “well-beauty” journey is no longer centered only on how people look, but also on how they feel. The future of beauty lies not in isolated aesthetic benefits, but in integrated approaches capable of promoting resilience, vitality, longevity, and overall wellbeing from within.





Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

James Kyffin

ADM

Colton Clason

ADM

Lindsay Sumners

ADM

Sathya Sooryan

Arjuna Natural Animal Nutrition

Dom Orlandi

Aroma New Zealand

Alexandra Wesker

Aseno

Vincent Wood

AstaReal

Behnaz Shakersain

AstaReal

Karen Hecht

AstaReal

Claudio Isenburg

Cerbios-Pharma SA

Leah Bessa

De Novo Foodlabs

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Veronique Brun

Biotexia (formerly known as Fytexia)

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Armando Antonelli

Hylobates Consulting

Isabella Corsato Alvarenga

IFF Pet

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Renee Machen

IFF Pet

Antonella Riva

Indena

Dayna Lozon

Intertek Assuris

Brandon Walters

Intertek Assuris

Ray A. Matulka

Intertek Assuris

J.F. (Jake) Burlet

CanBiocin Inc.

Ronaldo Avella Lavado

Pda (Paul Dick Associates)

On behalf of International Probiotics Association (IPA)

Aida Gadzhieva

IQVIA

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko USA

Francesca Susca

Lallemand Animal Nutrition

Cassandre Dujardin

Lallemand Health Solutions

Mary Joe Fernandez

Layn Natural Ingredients

Jessica Simonis

Clinical Nutritionist

Rajiv Khatau

Lodaat Pharma

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Guus Kortman

NIZO Food Research

Thaila Cristina Putarov

Phileo by Lesaffre

Russ Kelley

Phileo by Lesaffre

Bernadette Beadle

Phileo by Lesaffre

Alicia Kasch

RIBUS

Steve Peirce

RIBUS

Maggie McNamara

Saanroo

Shaheen Majeed

Sami-Sabinsa Group

Linda Carola Baggi

Sacco Srl

Salma Zahidi

Seppic

Cem Dik

Syensqo

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Noah Craft

People Science

Lindsey Wendt

Crystal Lotus Veterinary Care