Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within and holistic trends

Serena Tongiani, PhD
Chief Portfolio Officer, Indena

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Beauty From Within: The Emerging Landscape of Nutricosmetics

3) In the broader “self-care” landscape, the beauty industry is probably the sector undergoing the deepest transformation of the last few decades. Initially focused on personal care through the use of topical products mainly intended for aesthetic purposes, the industry has more recently recognized the need to also “nurture” the good appearance from within. This second phase led to the rise of nutricosmetics, a category that has experienced dramatic growth through the increasing use of supplements and oral formulations designed to support specific skin health parameters such as density, elasticity, hydration, and overall appearance by acting on internal biological pathways, including inflammation and oxidative stress.


However, the most interesting transformation is the one taking place today, as nutricosmetics move far beyond traditional aesthetics toward a more holistic concept of “beauty from within”, deeply connected to the idea of healthy aging.


True beauty is no longer perceived as merely skin deep; rather, skin health is increasingly recognized as a reflection of the body’s internal balance, closely linked to physical, emotional, and metabolic wellbeing. In this context, the nutricosmetics market is evolving into a broader “well-beauty” space, where beauty solutions are designed not only to improve appearance, but also to support long-term health, resilience, and quality of life.


What may appear to be a simple marketing trend is actually rooted in profound changes in people health conditions. Over the years, human longevity has increased due to multiple factors. A 40-year-old in the 1950s would likely have faced greater health risks from smoking, less advanced medical care, harsher working conditions, and less sophisticated beauty standards, while also living within a social and economic context shaped by the post-Great Depression era. In contrast, a 40-year-old today benefits from longer life expectancy, improved healthcare, greater technological access, and evolving social norms. The chronological age may be the same, but the appearance and overall health profile are completely different.


Accordingly, healthy aging has become a major driver shaping the future of holistic beauty. Consumers are no longer focused only on extending “lifespan”, but rather on enhancing “healthspan”, meaning the period of life spent in good physical, cognitive, and emotional health. A healthy and vibrant appearance is now perceived as a visible reflection of internal vitality and wellbeing, creating a two-way relationship between good appearance and good health.

In this scenario, where holistic wellbeing is central, there is increasing demand for science-backed solutions capable of rebalancing inflammatory response, oxidative stress, hormonal status, emotional wellbeing, sleep quality, detoxification processes, and even gut health. When these systems function harmoniously, the skin appears more radiant, elastic, and youthful.


Botanical and natural ingredients are playing a central role in this evolution. Rich in antioxidants, polyphenols, and bioactive compounds, botanicals show pleiotropic properties that can support improvements at the cellular level, physical performance, and overall appearance, contributing to both wellness and visible beauty outcomes.


Botanical extracts from Brassica oleracea vegetables, for example, are attracting growing attention for their role in activating cellular detoxification and antioxidant pathways. They are studied for their ability to help protect the skin against environmental stressors such as UV radiation and oxidative damage, while also supporting skin nourishment and healthy aging. This demonstrates how ingredients traditionally associated with wellbeing and detoxification are now becoming highly relevant within the nutricosmetics sector.


Not only traditional botanicals, but also advanced delivery systems can further optimize their health benefits by overcoming challenges such as poor oral bioabsorption and maximizing efficacy for skin health, vitality, and healthy aging.


Common plants such as Centella asiatica, traditionally used in both topical formulations and nutricosmetics, can further enhance their benefits through innovative technologies. A new centella extract formulated with phospholipids to improve bioabsorption and biological performance has now been scientifically shown to support collagen production and preservation against degradation, protect skin cells from oxidative stress, and contribute to skin repair and renewal to a greater extent than the unformulated extract. Clinical studies have also demonstrated its efficacy in improving skin firmness and elasticity, with supplemented subjects showing skin that appeared up to five years younger at the end of the supplementation. These multiple benefits perfectly align with the new holistic beauty philosophy: as natural collagen production declines with age, consumers are increasingly seeking solutions that support the body’s own collagen synthesis processes, while approaching skin health as part of broader physiological wellbeing.


In addition, natural ingredients traditionally used for relaxation and sleep support are being repositioned within beauty supplements to promote restorative sleep while simultaneously enhancing skin vitality and radiance. Lemon balm extract represents a good example: when combined with innovative delivery systems, including phospholipid-based technologies, it has been shown to help rebalance mood and emotional wellbeing while improving sleep quality and duration. The emerging field of “neuro-beauty”, which explores the connection between the nervous system, emotional wellbeing, and skin appearance, is becoming one of the most relevant areas of innovation.


Today, the evolution of the “well-beauty” journey is no longer centered only on how people look, but also on how they feel. The future of beauty lies not in isolated aesthetic benefits, but in integrated approaches capable of promoting resilience, vitality, longevity, and overall wellbeing from within.





Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

Trisha Sugarek MacDonald

Akay Bioactives, an Oterra company

Benny Antony

Arjuna Natural

Carlos Morales Ruiz

Aurora Intelligent Nutrition

Juliane Hellhammer

DAACRO

Franziska Schmitt

DAACRO

Annie Liu

DolCas Biotech

KG Rao

DolCas Biotech

Zachin Rao

DolCas Biotech

Miri Eliyahu

Euromonitor International

Magda Starula

Euromonitor International

Aarthi Janakiraman

Everest Group

Dieter Bracke

Fermedics BV

Mike Hughes

FMCG Gurus

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

Silvia Pisoni

Gnosis by Lesaffre

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Lucilla Caricchio

Hylobates Consulting

Johanna Maukonen

IFF Health

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Serena Tongiani

Indena

Volker Spitzer

IQVIA Consumer Health

Stephanie Krammer-Lukas

IQVIA Consumer Health

Tyler Holstein

Kemin Human Nutrition and Health

Alison M. Winger

Key2Biotics

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko

Celia Martin

Lallemand Bio-Ingredients

Elodie Aragon

Lallemand Health Solutions

Chris Kilham

Medicine Hunter

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Pauline Cox

Sow & Arrow

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Belinda Tan

People Science

Colleen Quinn

Colleen Quinn Consultancy

Matevž Ambrožič

PharmaLinea

Maja Orešnik

PharmaLinea

Lucia Barra

Probiotical

Annalisa Visciglia

Probiotical

Walter Fiore

ROELMI HPC

Florencia Moreno Torres

Rousselot

Shaheen Majeed

Sabinsa

Ilaria Campestri

B2B Health & Beauty,
ESG Industrial Processes Expert

Kelly Dobos

Consultant, Cosmetic Chemist

He Li

School of Food & Health
Beijing Technology & Business University

Claire Liu

Seppic

Suyin Perret-Gentil Robespierre

Suannutra

Jennifer Toomey

TopGum Industries

Inbal Nahmias

TopGum Industries

Anu Turpeinen

Valio