Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within and holistic trends

Dieter Bracke
Chief Scientific Officer, Fermedics BV

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

 “Beauty from within and holistic trends”

Consumers today are more informed and biologically aware than ever before. Beauty is no longer perceived purely as an external or cosmetic concept, but increasingly as a reflection of overall health, resilience and lifestyle. People better understand that skin structure, skin radiance, skin hydration and even inflammatory skin conditions are not merely influenced by what is applied topically, but are strongly impacted by what is happening internally — including gut health, immune activation, metabolic balance, sleep quality, stress and nutrition.


As a result, the next generation of beauty claims is evolving away from purely superficial benefits toward more functional, holistic and longevity-driven concepts. Consumers are increasingly searching for benefits linked to skin vitality, healthy aging, stress resilience, sleep quality, microbiome diversity, immune support and metabolic beauty. Over the coming years, I believe the beauty category will continue converging with the broader wellness and longevity sectors as consumers increasingly understand that beauty and healthy aging are deeply interconnected.


One particularly exciting area is autophagy — the body’s natural cellular renewal and recycling mechanism. Supporting healthy cellular renewal processes may contribute to skin regeneration, collagen homeostasis and overall tissue vitality. In this regard, longevity-focused ingredients such as spermidine are attracting increasing attention because of their association with healthy cellular renewal pathways and autophagy-related mechanisms. This reflects the broader transition from purely cosmetic beauty solutions toward approaches that support long-term cellular vitality and healthy aging from within.


At the same time, one of the most important scientific developments is the growing understanding of the gut-brain-skin axis. Emerging research continues to demonstrate the profound influence of the gut microbiome on immune regulation, systemic inflammation, stress resilience and skin health. Skin aging, skin radiance and skin hydration are increasingly recognized as being closely linked to internal physiological balance and microbiome diversity.


Interestingly, recent findings from the Sonnenburg Lab at Stanford University(1, 2, 3) suggest that fermented foods may improve microbiome diversity more effectively than fiber intake alone. This is helping shift the conversation beyond traditional probiotics toward broader microbiome-supportive approaches involving prebiotics, postbiotics and fermented foods as part of holistic beauty and healthy aging strategies.


Consumers are also becoming much more aware of the impact of chronic stress and sleep deprivation on visible aging. Poor sleep does not only affect energy levels and mood, but also directly impacts regenerative and cellular clean-up processes within the body. Sleep deprivation is increasingly associated with impaired recovery, increased inflammatory signaling and accelerated visible aging.


Particularly interesting is the growing scientific interest in glymphatic drainage during deep sleep (4, 5, 6). During the night, the brain undergoes an important cleansing process in which metabolic waste products are removed more efficiently. Impaired sleep quality may negatively affect this process, potentially influencing cognitive function, stress resilience and overall physiological balance. Because the gut, brain and immune system communicate bidirectionally, disturbances in sleep and stress regulation may indirectly influence gut health, immune activation and ultimately skin health.


This growing understanding is accelerating the convergence between neuro-health, wellness and beauty. Concepts such as stress resilience, emotional wellness and beauty sleep are becoming increasingly important pillars within next-generation nutricosmetic innovation. Ingredients traditionally associated with relaxation and cognitive wellness — including adaptogens, L-theanine and magnesium — are increasingly entering the beauty-from-within category because of their potential role in supporting sleep quality, stress regulation and overall well-being.


At the same time, consumers are increasingly integrating broader wellness protocols into their beauty routines. Daily skincare rituals are no longer only about appearance, but also about relaxation, recovery and emotional well-being. Practices such as mindfulness, recovery therapies and the use of infrared (IR) and near-infrared (NIR) light panels are increasingly becoming part of holistic self-care rituals aimed at supporting mitochondrial function, recovery, skin health and healthy aging.


This evolution also creates an important challenge for the nutricosmetic industry. A single capsule or tablet does not naturally provide the same sensorial and emotional experience as a complete skincare ritual. As a result, the industry is increasingly challenged to create ingestible beauty concepts that combine efficacy with enjoyment and ritualization. Gummies, beauty beverages, stick packs and ready-to-drink concepts are gaining popularity because they integrate more naturally into wellness-oriented lifestyles and create a more engaging consumer experience.


One of the major formulation challenges remains balancing clinically relevant dosages with enjoyable sensory experiences and clean-label positioning. Many highly effective natural ingredients come with formulation challenges related to bitterness, stability, solubility or color. Creating products that remain both highly efficacious and sensorially appealing without relying heavily on artificial additives remains a significant hurdle for the industry.


Sustainability is also rapidly evolving from a marketing concept into a core innovation driver. Consumers increasingly evaluate products not only on efficacy, but also on sourcing practices, production technologies, environmental impact and ingredient transparency. “Clean Beauty 3.0” goes far beyond simply avoiding controversial ingredients and increasingly focuses on regenerative sourcing, circular production systems and environmentally responsible technologies.


In this context, fermentation technologies represent one of the most promising innovation platforms. Fermentation allows natural ingredients to be biotransformed into more bioactive and bioavailable forms while reducing the need for harsh chemical processing or synthetic additives. Fermentation may also play an important role in upcycling strategies. Food streams or botanical materials that no longer meet conventional food market standards may still contain highly valuable bioactive compounds. Through fermentation concepts, these materials can potentially be repurposed into functional ingredients with enhanced bioactivity and improved sustainability profiles, contributing to more circular production systems and reduced waste streams.


Finally, I believe one of the most important future growth areas lies within peri-menopause and menopause-focused innovation. Historically, this demographic has been underserved despite the profound physiological changes women experience during this life stage. The industry has often focused too narrowly on hormonal symptoms alone while underestimating the importance of mitochondrial health, muscle preservation, metabolic resilience, sleep quality and overall vitality.


Longevity science increasingly recognizes mitochondrial function as one of the central drivers behind healthy aging (7). Mitochondria are not only responsible for cellular energy production, but also play a critical role in steroid hormone synthesis, including estrogen and progesterone production (8). This creates a strong connection between mitochondrial health, hormonal balance and healthy aging during menopause.


At the same time, muscle health is becoming increasingly important within menopause-focused innovation. Maintaining muscle mass contributes not only to metabolic health and mobility, but also to posture, skin firmness, energy levels and overall healthy aging outcomes. As a result, ingredients traditionally associated with sports nutrition and longevity — including proteins, amino acids, creatine, pomegranate extracts and urolithins — are increasingly entering the beauty and healthy aging categories.


Ultimately, the future of beauty will become far more holistic, interconnected and longevity-focused. The focus will move away from simply masking signs of aging toward supporting resilience, recovery, vitality and healthy aging from within.

Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

Trisha Sugarek MacDonald

Akay Bioactives, an Oterra company

Benny Antony

Arjuna Natural

Carlos Morales Ruiz

Aurora Intelligent Nutrition

Juliane Hellhammer

DAACRO

Franziska Schmitt

DAACRO

Annie Liu

DolCas Biotech

KG Rao

DolCas Biotech

Zachin Rao

DolCas Biotech

Miri Eliyahu

Euromonitor International

Magda Starula

Euromonitor International

Aarthi Janakiraman

Everest Group

Dieter Bracke

Fermedics BV

Mike Hughes

FMCG Gurus

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

Silvia Pisoni

Gnosis by Lesaffre

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Lucilla Caricchio

Hylobates Consulting

Johanna Maukonen

IFF Health

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Serena Tongiani

Indena

Volker Spitzer

IQVIA Consumer Health

Stephanie Krammer-Lukas

IQVIA Consumer Health

Tyler Holstein

Kemin Human Nutrition and Health

Alison M. Winger

Key2Biotics

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko

Celia Martin

Lallemand Bio-Ingredients

Elodie Aragon

Lallemand Health Solutions

Chris Kilham

Medicine Hunter

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Pauline Cox

Sow & Arrow

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Belinda Tan

People Science

Colleen Quinn

Colleen Quinn Consultancy

Matevž Ambrožič

PharmaLinea

Maja Orešnik

PharmaLinea

Lucia Barra

Probiotical

Annalisa Visciglia

Probiotical

Walter Fiore

ROELMI HPC

Florencia Moreno Torres

Rousselot

Shaheen Majeed

Sabinsa

Ilaria Campestri

B2B Health & Beauty,
ESG Industrial Processes Expert

Kelly Dobos

Consultant, Cosmetic Chemist

He Li

School of Food & Health
Beijing Technology & Business University

Claire Liu

Seppic

Suyin Perret-Gentil Robespierre

Suannutra

Jennifer Toomey

TopGum Industries

Inbal Nahmias

TopGum Industries

Anu Turpeinen

Valio