Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within and holistic trends

Shaheen Majeed
CEO & Managing Director,
Sabinsa

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

1) The beauty category has always chased the next compelling claim, but what we are witnessing now is a fundamental reorientation. Consumers want to understand the mechanism, demand clinical substantiation, and increasingly expect to know that what they consume is working at the cellular level.


Over the next five years, I expect the conversation to shift decisively toward skin longevity, as a genuine biomarker of internal health. When skin quality becomes legible as a reflection of metabolic function, inflammatory load, and oxidative stress, the nutricosmetic category earns a seat much closer to functional medicine than beauty aisle positioning.


Two ingredient directions illustrate where this is heading: tetrahydrocurcuminoids, a colorless curcuminoid fraction with potent antioxidant and anti-glycation activity being developed for both oral and topical applications, and standardized Phyllanthus emblica extract, which combines antioxidant, photoprotective, and collagen-supportive properties in a single clinically validated botanical. What excites me most is that ingredient science is finally moving faster than marketing narratives.


2) The rapid adoption of GLP-1 receptor agonists has created a genuinely new clinical context for our industry. Rapid weight loss accelerates muscle catabolism, reduces circulating collagen precursors, and compromises the nutritional environment that both skin and hair depend on. The aesthetic consequences manifest on two fronts: the skin loses structural support and radiance, while the hair follicle cycle is disrupted by the combined stress of caloric restriction and micronutrient depletion. These effects are readily identified by consumers and have been called “Ozempic face.”


On the skin side, tetrahydrocurcuminoids offer antioxidant support without the pigmentation concerns associated with parent curcumin. On the hair side, follicle health under metabolic stress depends on scalp microcirculation, keratin precursor availability, and 5-alpha reductase regulation. A clinically validated combination of coconut liquid endosperm, standardized Phyllanthus emblica extract, and a selenium-enriched peptide demonstrated improved hair growth rate and density, and reduced hair fall in subjects with moderate hair loss over 90 days. This kind of multi-targeted support, addressing both skin and hair through characterized mechanisms, is exactly what the GLP-1 era demands. The nutricosmetic segment has a genuine role to play here, but only if it rises to the moment with rigorous science rather than opportunistic claims.


3) The gut-skin axis is no longer speculative. Evidence now connects the gut microbiome’s composition and metabolic activity to inflammatory markers, barrier function, sebum regulation, and pigmentation, repositioning the gut as a primary site of beauty intervention.

Sabinsa has worked with Bacillus coagulans (Heyndrickxia coagulans) MTCC 5856 for many years, a rigorously studied spore-forming probiotic with demonstrated gastrointestinal efficacy. Postbiotic fractions from this organism have also shown direct topical antimicrobial activity, opening new formulation possibilities at the gut-skin interface.


Sleep and the circadian skin repair cycle represent another underutilized frontier. Growth hormone secretion, collagen synthesis, and epidermal barrier restoration all peak during deep sleep. Cortisol dysregulation degrades collagen, amplifies inflammation, and accelerates barrier breakdown, creating a direct mechanistic bridge between stress resilience, sleep quality, and visible skin condition. Ashwagandha from sports nutrition, and adaptogens broadly from general wellness, are building a credible evidence base for cortisol modulation with real downstream relevance to skin health.


6) Topical delivery faces inherent penetration constraints. Oral supplementation reaches dermal layers that topical formulations cannot, supporting collagen biosynthesis, reducing systemic inflammation, and replenishing antioxidant reserves. The combination addresses the skin from both directions simultaneously.


Photoprotection is a well-evidenced example: topical sunscreens intercept incident UV, while oral antioxidants address the oxidative cascade that UV triggers internally. Phyllanthus emblica extract, with its well-characterized antioxidant activity and preliminary photoprotective properties, represents a rational oral complement to topical sun care.


The more forward-looking integration is in the procedural space. Laser resurfacing, microneedling, and chemical peels create a wound-healing state where nutritional support can influence recovery speed, collagen remodeling quality, and post-inflammatory pigmentation. Pre- and post-procedure supplementation protocols are gaining traction with progressive dermatologists, and formalizing them through prescriber education is one of the highest-value opportunities the nutricosmetic industry has yet to fully seize.


Regionally, Asia-Pacific markets have led on integrated routines, while Europe accelerates under stricter regulatory frameworks requiring substantiated claims.


7)Skin is not a monolith, and ingredient science that treats it as one will always fall short. Melanin biology differs meaningfully across phototypes. Hormonal life stages create distinct inflammatory and barrier profiles. Gender-linked differences in sebum production, collagen density, and wound healing kinetics are well documented. These are distinct physiological realities, not marketing segments.


Our approach starts with the raw material. Ayurvedic and traditional botanical systems were developed across enormously diverse populations. Published clinical work on combinations of licorice extract, pterostilbene glucoside, and related brightening actives has specifically included subjects with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in Fitzpatrick types IV through VI, with documented improvements in melanin and erythema scores.


On gender, male skin presents a distinct physiology: higher sebum output, greater androgen-driven follicular activity, and different collagen dynamics. Solutions built around 5-alpha reductase regulation and sebum control are inherently relevant to male skin health and inclusive by design. Clinical diversity requirements in trial design are tightening globally, and inclusive purchasing decisions are now a mainstream commercial signal.


9) Clean Beauty 3.0 has moved through distinct phases: “free from” claims, then natural sourcing credentials, and now systems-level accountability. What this third wave demands is traceability from cultivation through processing, supply chain resilience built on integrated sourcing, and genuine fair-trade practices at the point of origin.


Upcycling is central to this conversation. Scientifically validated cosmetic actives are increasingly being identified within agricultural byproduct streams rather than dedicated monocultures, reducing environmental pressure while expanding the ingredient palette. Coconut liquid endosperm is one such example.


The methodology shift the industry must adopt is life-cycle assessment as a development standard, not an afterthought. Third-party certification frameworks provide meaningful benchmarks, but only when traceability runs all the way back to the source. Suppliers who cannot demonstrate this will find themselves at a growing disadvantage as brands and formulators raise their expectations.


11) The menopause category has been one of the most scientifically under-resourced demographic segments in health and beauty, and the perimenopause window is only now receiving the distinct attention it deserves. Perimenopause is characterized by hormonal volatility, heightened inflammatory sensitivity, and early vascular changes, calling for earlier, preventive intervention. Postmenopause brings chronically lower estrogen with cumulative physiological consequences.


What the industry has broadly missed is the systemic nature of that decline. Falling estrogen alters nitric oxide bioavailability, affects microcirculation critical to nutrient and oxygen delivery to skin and hair, accelerates muscle quality decline with visible aesthetic consequences, and shifts the inflammatory baseline, making skin more reactive and less resilient.


Sabinsa's research with Sabeet®, a standardized nitrate-rich beetroot extract, speaks directly to this physiology. A randomized, placebo-controlled 12-week trial published in Nutrients (1) demonstrated significant improvements in morphological muscle quality and rate of force development in postmenopausal women aged 60 to 85. A companion study in the American Journal of Physiology (2) documented meaningful improvements in carotid artery stiffness, confirming that nitrate-driven enhancement of nitric oxide bioavailability supports vascular health without affecting blood pressure.


Precision menopause solutions require ingredient science that engages the whole physiological picture: microcirculation, muscle quality, inflammatory tone, and oxidative burden together.

Holistic Beauty & the Well‑Beauty Journey

Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

Trisha Sugarek MacDonald

Akay Bioactives, an Oterra company

Benny Antony

Arjuna Natural

Carlos Morales Ruiz

Aurora Intelligent Nutrition

Juliane Hellhammer

DAACRO

Franziska Schmitt

DAACRO

Annie Liu

DolCas Biotech

KG Rao

DolCas Biotech

Zachin Rao

DolCas Biotech

Miri Eliyahu

Euromonitor International

Magda Starula

Euromonitor International

Aarthi Janakiraman

Everest Group

Dieter Bracke

Fermedics BV

Mike Hughes

FMCG Gurus

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

Silvia Pisoni

Gnosis by Lesaffre

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Lucilla Caricchio

Hylobates Consulting

Johanna Maukonen

IFF Health

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Serena Tongiani

Indena

Volker Spitzer

IQVIA Consumer Health

Stephanie Krammer-Lukas

IQVIA Consumer Health

Tyler Holstein

Kemin Human Nutrition and Health

Alison M. Winger

Key2Biotics

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko

Celia Martin

Lallemand Bio-Ingredients

Elodie Aragon

Lallemand Health Solutions

Chris Kilham

Medicine Hunter

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Pauline Cox

Sow & Arrow

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Belinda Tan

People Science

Colleen Quinn

Colleen Quinn Consultancy

Matevž Ambrožič

PharmaLinea

Maja Orešnik

PharmaLinea

Lucia Barra

Probiotical

Annalisa Visciglia

Probiotical

Walter Fiore

ROELMI HPC

Florencia Moreno Torres

Rousselot

Shaheen Majeed

Sabinsa

Ilaria Campestri

B2B Health & Beauty,
ESG Industrial Processes Expert

Kelly Dobos

Consultant, Cosmetic Chemist

He Li

School of Food & Health
Beijing Technology & Business University

Claire Liu

Seppic

Suyin Perret-Gentil Robespierre

Suannutra

Jennifer Toomey

TopGum Industries

Inbal Nahmias

TopGum Industries

Anu Turpeinen

Valio