Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within

Aarthi Janakiraman
Research Director, Everest Group

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

1) Beauty claims are moving from ingredient presence to measurable biological and visible outcomes. Instead of “contains collagen” or “with hyaluronic acid,” brands will need to answer: what does it do, how fast, in whom, and measured by which endpoint? Consumer benefits are becoming more specific: barrier support, hydration, glow, radiance, hair density, reduced shedding, stronger nails, blemish-prone skin support, scalp health, and photo-ageing support. This pushes R&D toward claim-specific measurement: corneometry for hydration, TEWL for barrier function, cutometry for elasticity, and imaging for visible change. Over five years, claims will organize around condition-specific beauty systems, while EU food-supplement regulation means claims must match the legal category and substantiation file.


2) GLP-1s are creating a new intersection between metabolic health, body recomposition, skin quality, and hair health. The issue is not that GLP-1 medicines are “bad” for skin or hair; rapid weight loss and lower food intake can create visible aesthetic consequences. Nutricosmetics should be positioned carefully as support during weight-loss and body recomposition journeys, not prevention or treatment of side effects. R&D focus areas include low-volume protein and lean-mass support, hair-shedding support with collagen peptides, sulfur amino acids, zinc, selenium, vitamin D and iron-aware pathways, plus hydration/barrier support using collagen, HA and ceramides. Products also need GI tolerance and metabolic compatibility, and may integrate oral nutrition with topical care, medspas, dermatology, dietetics, and aesthetic clinics.


3) Well-beauty” is where beauty is understood as an outcome of sleep, stress, gut health, nutrition, metabolic status, hormonal life stage, inflammation, and recovery, rather than surface appearance alone. Four territories are moving into nutricosmetics. First, gut–skin beauty: probiotics, prebiotics, synbiotics and postbiotics are relevant to clarity, barrier support, redness-prone skin and scalp health; postbiotics are especially attractive for shelf-stable powders, gummies, effervescents and beverages. Second, sleep: poor sleep is linked to ageing signs and barrier recovery, creating AM/PM beauty opportunities. Third, stress-skin and neuro-beauty: adaptogens, L-theanine, magnesium, B vitamins and sensory rituals can support compliant claims. Fourth, metabolic beauty and healthy ageing: oxidative stress, glycation, protein quality, mitochondria and inflammation.


4) Topical beauty has raised expectations: products must feel good, look good, create self-care, and deliver both immediate sensorial pleasure and long-term benefit. Nutricosmetics often still feel functional rather than emotionally engaging, especially capsules. To catch up, they must become ritual-first, not only dose-first. Strong ingestible rituals attach to existing behavior, such as collagen creamers in coffee, and have a clear occasion. AM formats should feel energizing, hydrating, bright, and easy; PM formats should feel calming, restorative, and sensorially excellent. The challenge is balancing clinical dose with taste, texture, aroma, solubility and convenience. Flavor, mouthfeel, packaging, and occasion design are not marketing extras; they are adherence technologies.


6) Integrated “in and out” journeys are compelling because beauty is shaped externally by topicals and procedures, and internally by hydration, nutrition, oxidative stress, inflammation, protein status, hormones, sleep and metabolism. Evidence is emerging, including a 2025 placebo-controlled oral-plus-topical hyaluronic acid trial in a multiethnic population. The most defensible use cases target one outcome through different mechanisms: topical HA/ceramides plus oral HA/ceramides/collagen for hydration and barrier; SPF plus oral carotenoids/polyphenols as adjunct photo-ageing support; scalp serums or minoxidil-adjacent routines plus oral nutrition; and post-procedure topical repair plus oral support for collagen synthesis, antioxidants and hydration. Dermatology adoption requires clear composition, safety, procedure compatibility, realistic claims and measurable endpoints, with regional claim differences.


7) Inclusivity should start in R&D, not marketing. Research design, endpoint selection, claims, and product architecture must reflect differences in skin tones, ethnic backgrounds, genders, ages and life stages. This matters because redness, pigmentation, radiance, dullness, and post-blemish marks can present differently across skin tones, and tools such as the Fitzpatrick scale are limited because they were designed around UV response, not full skin biology. Imaging and AI tools must be validated across diverse populations. Life-stage needs also matter: postpartum, perimenopause, menopause, and ageing affect skin dryness, elasticity, scalp health and hair thinning. Future segmentation could include perimenopause beauty, men’s scalp/density, melanin-rich skin support, and postpartum hair pathways.


8) I would be cautious with “hyper-personalization.” The industry is moving toward better personalization, but most brands cannot yet formulate truly individualized beauty-from-within products from complete consumer biology. What is realistic is guided or segmented personalization: using skin imaging, lifestyle data, beauty goals, purchase history and targeted biomarkers to route consumers into hydration/barrier, hair-density, blemish-prone/gut–skin or perimenopause pathways. Beauty outcomes are multifactorial, influenced by genetics, age, hormones, sleep, stress, nutrition, UV, medication, microbiome, topicals, and environment. AI also faces dataset bias, biomarker interpretation issues, manufacturing complexity, privacy, and regulatory risks. The practical path is modular 12-week adaptive protocols with reassessment at week 4 or 8, not infinite bespoke formulas.

My final thought

Nutricosmetics is moving from a supplement category into a measurable beauty-performance category. The winners will not be brands with the longest ingredient list, but those that build a complete system: right claim, right consumer, right dose, right format, right evidence, right regulatory language, and right ritual. That means R&D, regulatory, marketing and strategy teams must work together from the concept stage rather than sequentially. The future belongs to brands that can connect clinical logic with consumer behavior: measurable outcomes, compliant language, sensorial products, inclusive design and routines people can realistically sustain long enough to see results in real use consistently.

Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

James Kyffin

ADM

Colton Clason

ADM

Lindsay Sumners

ADM

Sathya Sooryan

Arjuna Natural Animal Nutrition

Dom Orlandi

Aroma New Zealand

Alexandra Wesker

Aseno

Vincent Wood

AstaReal

Behnaz Shakersain

AstaReal

Karen Hecht

AstaReal

Claudio Isenburg

Cerbios-Pharma SA

Leah Bessa

De Novo Foodlabs

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Veronique Brun

Biotexia (formerly known as Fytexia)

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Armando Antonelli

Hylobates Consulting

Isabella Corsato Alvarenga

IFF Pet

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Renee Machen

IFF Pet

Antonella Riva

Indena

Dayna Lozon

Intertek Assuris

Brandon Walters

Intertek Assuris

Ray A. Matulka

Intertek Assuris

J.F. (Jake) Burlet

CanBiocin Inc.

Ronaldo Avella Lavado

Pda (Paul Dick Associates)

On behalf of International Probiotics Association (IPA)

Aida Gadzhieva

IQVIA

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko USA

Francesca Susca

Lallemand Animal Nutrition

Cassandre Dujardin

Lallemand Health Solutions

Mary Joe Fernandez

Layn Natural Ingredients

Jessica Simonis

Clinical Nutritionist

Rajiv Khatau

Lodaat Pharma

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Guus Kortman

NIZO Food Research

Thaila Cristina Putarov

Phileo by Lesaffre

Russ Kelley

Phileo by Lesaffre

Bernadette Beadle

Phileo by Lesaffre

Alicia Kasch

RIBUS

Steve Peirce

RIBUS

Maggie McNamara

Saanroo

Shaheen Majeed

Sami-Sabinsa Group

Linda Carola Baggi

Sacco Srl

Salma Zahidi

Seppic

Cem Dik

Syensqo

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Noah Craft

People Science

Lindsey Wendt

Crystal Lotus Veterinary Care