Panel discussion on...

Beauty from within and holistic trends

Annie Liu1       , KG Rao2       , Zachin Rao3
1. Medical and Scientific Affairs, DolCas Biotech
2. CEO, DolCas Biotech
3. Sales Manager, DolCas Biotech

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

3) The concept of “beauty from within” has evolved significantly over the past decade. While early nutricosmetic products focused primarily on hydration, collagen support, and healthy aging, scientific understanding now points to a deeper connection between beauty and overall wellness. Increasingly, skin health is being viewed as a visible reflection of internal health, and the emerging concept of skin longevity aligns closely with broader discussions around health span and healthy aging.


A key driver behind many visible skin concerns is chronic inflammation. Research continues to demonstrate that inflammatory processes contribute to oxidative stress, collagen degradation, impaired skin barrier function, cellular senescence, and accelerated aging. These processes are often influenced by lifestyle factors such as poor diet, insufficient sleep, environmental exposures, stress, and metabolic imbalances.


As a result, ingredients and concepts traditionally associated with gut health, metabolic health, immune function, stress management, and longevity are increasingly finding their place within the nutricosmetic category. One notable example is curcumin, a well-established anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compound. Emerging research suggests that curcumin may help support skin health by addressing inflammatory pathways associated with conditions such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, supporting wound healing, helping protect against UV-induced photoaging, and contributing to a more even skin appearance through modulation of tyrosinase activity.

The next generation of nutricosmetics will move beyond simply improving visible appearance and instead focus on supporting the biological mechanisms that influence skin health and aging. This shift reflects a broader understanding that healthy, resilient skin begins with a healthy internal environment.


4)While collagen remains one of the most important ingredients in the beauty-from-within category, it has historically presented significant formulation challenges. Clinically effective collagen dosages have traditionally ranged from 2.5 to 10 grams per day, limiting product formats primarily to powders and ready-to-drink beverages. Such high inclusion levels can negatively impact taste, texture, and consumer convenience while increasing formulation complexity and cost.


Recent advances in collagen science have introduced collagen tripeptides (Gly-X-Y), which have demonstrated clinical efficacy at dosages as low as 1 gram per day. Lower effective dosages create substantially greater flexibility for product developers, enabling incorporation into capsules, gummies, chocolates, functional beverages, and other innovative delivery systems.

In addition to improved formulation versatility, collagen tripeptides utilize a unique absorption mechanism that differs from conventional dietary proteins, potentially enhancing bioavailability while reducing competition with other protein sources. This creates opportunities for brands to expand beyond traditional supplement formats into everyday functional foods such as yogurt, coffee beverages, protein drinks, and frozen desserts.


As consumer expectations continue to evolve, success in nutricosmetics will depend not only on efficacy but also on creating enjoyable daily wellness rituals. The industry’s challenge is to balance strong clinical outcomes with taste, convenience, texture, and overall user experience. Low-dose, clinically effective ingredients will play an increasingly important role in achieving this balance.


7) Skin is one of the most visible expressions of human diversity. Genetics, age, gender, lifestyle, environmental exposure, and nutritional status all influence skin health and aging. Consequently, the industry is moving away from a one-size-fits-all approach and toward more personalized and inclusive solutions.


This shift begins with clinical research. Study populations should increasingly reflect diverse ethnicities, genders, and life stages to ensure that efficacy data accurately represent the broad range of consumers using these products.


Consumer needs also vary considerably across different stages of life. Among teenagers and young adults, acne remains a primary concern, with inflammation and microbiome balance playing important roles. Ingredients with anti-inflammatory and microbiome-supportive properties, including curcumin and omega fatty acids, are receiving growing attention in this area.

For consumers in their 20s and 30s, prevention is becoming a key focus. UV exposure, oxidative stress, collagen degradation, and hyperpigmentation begin accumulating long before visible signs of aging appear. Polyphenol-rich ingredients, including curcumin and plant-derived antioxidants, are increasingly positioned to support skin resilience and protection. At the same time, collagen and ceramides continue to gain popularity for maintaining hydration and supporting the skin barrier.


As individuals enter their 40s, 50s, and beyond, declining collagen production and increased transepidermal water loss contribute to reduced elasticity, dryness, and visible aging. Ingredients such as collagen tripeptides, ginseng, and Centella asiatica are increasingly being incorporated into healthy aging and skin longevity strategies.


More broadly, personalization means recognizing that beauty goals are highly individual. Whether addressing acne-prone skin, active lifestyles, postpartum recovery, menopause-related changes, or healthy aging, consumers increasingly expect solutions tailored to their unique needs and life circumstances.


9) Collagen remains one of the most widely used and scientifically supported ingredients in nutricosmetics. Although demand for vegan alternatives continues to grow, true collagen is naturally animal-derived, and plant proteins do not contain hydroxyproline, a key amino acid associated with collagen structure. While certain botanical ingredients may support the body’s natural collagen production, their effects are generally less direct than collagen-derived ingredients.


However, the future of nutricosmetics extends beyond efficacy alone. The emerging concept of Clean Beauty 3.0 requires consideration of environmental sustainability, responsible sourcing, and long-term ecosystem health alongside product performance.


Marine-derived ingredients have traditionally played an important role in beauty nutrition. Yet today’s oceans face increasing challenges, including pollution, microplastics, climate change, and pressure on wild fish populations. Excessive reliance on wild-caught marine resources can contribute to environmental imbalance and biodiversity loss.


According to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) (1), sustainable aquaculture will play an increasingly important role in the future global food supply. Through its Blue Transformation initiative, the FAO aims to support approximately 35% growth in sustainable aquaculture production by 2030.


For the nutricosmetic industry, this highlights the importance of adopting more responsible collagen sourcing strategies, including the use of ingredients derived from ASC-certified aquaculture operations. Such certifications help ensure responsible environmental practices, traceability, fish welfare, legal compliance, and positive community impact while maintaining ingredient quality and efficacy.


Ultimately, Clean Beauty 3.0 is about more than ingredient safety or performance. It represents a broader commitment to transparency, sustainability, ethical sourcing, and environmental stewardship. The future of beauty-from-within solutions will depend on combining scientifically validated ingredients with responsible practices that support both human health and the health of the planet.


Conclusion

Panelists

Vincenzo Zaccaria

Bionap (Active Group)

Trisha Sugarek MacDonald

Akay Bioactives, an Oterra company

Benny Antony

Arjuna Natural

Carlos Morales Ruiz

Aurora Intelligent Nutrition

Juliane Hellhammer

DAACRO

Franziska Schmitt

DAACRO

Annie Liu

DolCas Biotech

KG Rao

DolCas Biotech

Zachin Rao

DolCas Biotech

Miri Eliyahu

Euromonitor International

Magda Starula

Euromonitor International

Aarthi Janakiraman

Everest Group

Dieter Bracke

Fermedics BV

Mike Hughes

FMCG Gurus

Katia Merten-Lentz

Food Law Science and Partners

Oliver Wolf

Gelita

Silvia Pisoni

Gnosis by Lesaffre

David Foreman

Herbal Pharmacist Media

Lucilla Caricchio

Hylobates Consulting

Johanna Maukonen

IFF Health

Arthur C. Ouwehand

IFF Health

Serena Tongiani

Indena

Volker Spitzer

IQVIA Consumer Health

Stephanie Krammer-Lukas

IQVIA Consumer Health

Tyler Holstein

Kemin Human Nutrition and Health

Alison M. Winger

Key2Biotics

Karen E. Todd

Kyowa Hakko

Celia Martin

Lallemand Bio-Ingredients

Elodie Aragon

Lallemand Health Solutions

Chris Kilham

Medicine Hunter

Greg Cumberford

Natures Crops International

Pauline Cox

Sow & Arrow

Sybille Buchwald-Werner

Newday

Laetitia d’Ursel

People Science

Belinda Tan

People Science

Colleen Quinn

Colleen Quinn Consultancy

Matevž Ambrožič

PharmaLinea

Maja Orešnik

PharmaLinea

Lucia Barra

Probiotical

Annalisa Visciglia

Probiotical

Walter Fiore

ROELMI HPC

Florencia Moreno Torres

Rousselot

Shaheen Majeed

Sabinsa

Ilaria Campestri

B2B Health & Beauty,
ESG Industrial Processes Expert

Kelly Dobos

Consultant, Cosmetic Chemist

He Li

School of Food & Health
Beijing Technology & Business University

Claire Liu

Seppic

Suyin Perret-Gentil Robespierre

Suannutra

Jennifer Toomey

TopGum Industries

Inbal Nahmias

TopGum Industries

Anu Turpeinen

Valio